Watches and Wonders 2026 Introduction: Enamel Dial Daytona

 

WATCHES AND WONDERS

...Another "Unobtainium" new Rolex Daytona...

 Enamel Dial 

Rolesium Daytona

I have to admit, this new Rolex Daytona has confused me to no end, in the sense it's "Off Catalog", which means it will not be offered for sale in Rolex authorized dealerships, nor on Rolex.com, and it's essentially a stainless steel model, with a platinum bezel and caseback, that retails for $57,800, despite the fact you won't be able to purchase one!?!! Kinda like the Le Mans Rolex Daytona...

The great news is that Benjamin Clymer from Hodinkee wrote a superb article that deciphers the mystery behind this highly esoteric new Rolex Daytona model and he also created an excellent video (below) that explains all the details of this novel Daytona Rolex showed off at Watches and Wonders 2026:

Ben Clymer's excellent overview story, which I provided a Hodinkee link to in the former paragraph, included a section titled: "Five Things I Don't Love About The Rolex Daytona Reference 126502". His second piece of constructive criticism was:

2. That it has an open case back. This isn't a new gripe – the Le Mans is literally my favorite watch, but I believe a Rolex should have a closed case back. They don't need to play the game everyone else does by showing off what's inside.

I completely disagree with Ben's opinion that Rolex watches should NOT have exhibition casebooks, but should remain closed! Rolex movements are absolute works of art, and deserve to be showcased for multiple great reasons. 

My primary argument is that Rolex pretty much invented the exhibition casebook back in the 1920s so their sales agents could show jewelers how precise and well designed Rolex movements were. Below is an early Rolex Oyster with an exhibition caseback from the late 1920s, that shows the movement. Just to be clear, according to the best scholarship Rolex never made these beautiful watches with exhibition casebacks available for purchase, but some of them have been preserved, and in the past I have written extensively on them.

Again, in the early 1930s, after Rolex launched their revolutionary Rolex Oyster Perpetual movement, they once again created exhibition casebacks to showcase how they worked for salesmen, and the one we see below has survived intact. 

Just to be crystal clear—pun intended—both the Rolex Oyster pictured above, as well as the Rolex Oyster Perpetual pictured below have crystal clear glass casebacks to show how their movements function, despite the fact they almost look like they have simply had their casebook removed. 

Rolex has always been preoccupied with the precision and reliability of their movements, so it wasn't until recently they focused on maximizing the aesthetic presentation of their movements as pictured below.

JAKE'S TAKE

On the one hand, I think this is a cool looking Rolex and I love the exhibition caseback. On the other hand, I am deeply confused about why when there is such a long waiting list, meaning years, for the classic stainless steel Daytona, why Rolex doesn't focus first on resolving that issue, instead of creating a $60K watch nobody can even purchase!?!!

If it were up to me, and I was running Rolex, I would add the exhibition caseback as an option for all Rolex watches, and I would focus on creating more affordable models that are available for immediate purchase. 

This new model features a beautiful new lacquered dial, and an interesting new bezel insert which is extremely durable, but I think these would be a great add-on to the standard stainless Daytona. Hopefully this new platinum and stainless Daytona model is like an advanced R&D Rolex with experimental features that will one day trickle-down to the standard stainless models.

Once again, for clarity sake, I would love to see Rolex move in a direction where they offer premium upgrades to their basic models. So for instance, with a stainless steel Daytona, customers would be able to upgrade the dial, and bezel, as well as add an exhibition caseback, which would perhaps increase the retail price by around $4,000, or so.

Rolex describes their train of thought for this new model below:

I WANT A GOOD WATCH

not an  

UNOBTAINABLE WATCH

The brochure below was published in 1961 for the Rolex Submariner [Reference 5512]. I once offered my opinion on this brochure and wrote: 

"This super-cool, ultra-fascinating 1961 Rolex Submariner brochure perfectly sums up the raw core essence of Rolex and is one of my absolute favorite pieces of vintage Rolex collateral marketing material! I would go so far as to say this quintessential timeless document is as close as Rolex has ever come to writing a constitution..."

The brochure was published just after Rolex's founder, Hans Wilsdorf passed away, and I think Rolex would better serve its customers by making "GOOD WATCHES" that people can afford and obtain, than making "OFF CATALOG" models that people can't aspire to as they are so expensive and essentially unobtainable...

In other words, "I WANT A GOOD WATCH" from Rolex. Nobody wants an "UNOBTAINABLE WATCH".

GMT-MASTER Gone With The Wind

WATCHES AND WONDERS

...Chickens one day. Feathers the next...

 GMT-MASTER 

Gone With The Wind  

They say if you live long enough you will see everything. I remember the first time Rolex discontinued the stainless steel Pepsi GMT-Master back in 2008, which completely freaked me out!!!

Then they brought back the stainless steel Pepsi in 2018 [Reference 126710BLRO, pictured above and below] to critical acclaim, and last week at Watches and Wonders in Switzerland Rolex shocked the collectors community by discontinuing it yet again. 

Discontinuing Rolex models is usually not that big a deal, but discontinuing the GMT-Master, which is one of Rolex's most historically popular professional sports tool watches on the surface is totally bizarre!

So what is going on exactly? Why on earth world Rolex discontinue one of it's most successful and iconic models?

I don't know, but several sources I have spoken with have suggested that Rolex plans to reintroduce a new model of the Pepsi GMT that is significantly updated, including an updated movement. Rolex has a special event coming up in several weeks on May 12, and who knows? Maybe Rolex will surprise us by launching an all new GMT-Master? Hopefully...

WATCHES AND WONDERS, 100th Anniversary Rolex Oyster

WATCHES AND WONDERS

...A CELEBRATION OF 100 YEARS OF THE OYSTER...

 100th Anniversary 

Rolex Oyster

Rolex's teaser video showed the detail pictured below a few days before Watches and Wonders 2026 got underway, which features the "100 YEARS" dial designation in the position where Rolex usually places the "SWISS MADE" dial designation.

Let's closely examine the details of this very interesting Rolex novelty and then we will dive into the history of the Rolex OYSTER in order to properly contextualize this beauty. Rolex, in their own words perfectly introduce the features that set this beauty apart:

The first thing we notice is this watch has so much Rolex Oyster DNA, while incorporating a number of different new features that serve to really differentiate this model that celebrates 100 YEARS of the Rolex Oyster. 

To the best of my knowledge, Rolex has NEVER made a modern two-tone Oyster Perpetual, or any model for that matter, that ONLY has a yellow gold bezel without making the center links of the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet in matching yellow gold. This subtle change in appearance really sets this watch apart.

I would say this Rolex has a unique vibe, all its own, in that it really is retro-futuristic, in a totally classic and timeless way only Rolex could produce. In other words, it looks like it's from the past, and future simultaneously, which is what makes it so timeless.

Also, the 60 Second track that runs around the 5-Second baton markers, features square markers in Rolex green, which also match the "ROLEX" dial designation which is unusual. By screen printing the "ROLEX" dial designation in green, is kind of camouflages it, so then words "OYSTER PERPETUAL" REALLY stand out and pop. 

In other words, traditionally Rolex prints both lines in white so they both pop, but on his model, Rolex really put the primary focus on "OYSTER PERPETUAL", far more than on "ROLEX", which makes perfect sense as this watch clearly celebrates the 100th Anniversary of the Rolex Oyster.

HISTORY REPEATS ITSELF

       “The vision recurs; the eastern sun has a second rise; history repeats her tale unconsciously, and goes off into a mystic rhyme; ages are prototypes of other ages, and the winding course of time brings us round to the same spot again.”  

—Mystic Rhyme 1845

The ROLEX Magazine ad below was originally published in 1956, which was 70 years ago on the 30th Anniversary of the the Rolex Oyster, and notice the unmistakable doubled-up timeless design language for the 15, 30 and 45 minute baton markers, which I originally published in 2022. This design language feature was incorporated into the most recent Rolex Oyster Perpetual models when they were introduced in 2020. This design language not only stands testament to what makes Rolex watches so timeless, but also illustrates how Rolex has almost perfectly maintained its design language secret formula.

JAKE'S TAKE

I have one detail I would LOVE to see Rolex incorporate which I think would improve Rolex models like the Oyster Perpetual, and that would be to bring back the dauphin pointed sword style hands from the mid 1950s. Dauphin hands from the 1950s represented late art deco, known as Populuxe, which was more of a futuristic, space age, modern, sharp, clean streamlined look. 

As we see in the 1956 Rolex Magazine "ROLEX OYSTER" ad pictured above, it featured dauphin hands, which I think are infinitely more "ROLEXY", and I think Rolex should offer them as an option. In other words, I think Rolex should still offer their standard lumed rectangular hands as pictured below on the "100 YEARS" model, but I think they should also offer the retro 1950s dauphin hands, as I mocked up on the left side, which create a lot more visual interest and contrast, while making the watch look more vintage/retro and sharp looking. 

For frame of reference, the photo below shows a 1956 Rolex Oyster Perpetual with the dual baton markers coupled with dauphin hands, and appears courtesy of OldTimer.Watch. This appears to be remarkably similar to the model featured above in the 1956 Rolex Magazine ad with the difference being the one pictured below is on a Rolex Oyster strap, as apposed to the one in the ad being on a leather strap.

THE ROLEX CHRONICLES

By JAKE EHRLICH

Speaking of "JAKE'S TAKE", I have an interesting update to share with you on my book series I have been working of for years now. In my books series, I go into great detail on the history of the Rolex Oyster, which is deeply profound on many levels, as the Rolex Oyster is arguably on of the most most profound watch innovations in history.

I have been working on a series of books now, which are up to 28 volumes, which makes my book series titled "THE ROLEX CHRONICLES by JAKE EHRLICH" a veritable encyclopedia on Rolex History.

After a lot of thought, I decided my first Rolex book series will be on the subject of "ROLEX'S FOUNDING FATHERS", and the first four volumes cover then entire life journey of Rolex's legendary founder, Hans Wilsdorf. In other words, my book series covers his entire lifetime of achievements from cradle to grave, then continues on with books on the other three men who are most responsible for creating the most timeless and renowned brands in history.

For the record, this series reveals a great deal of previously undocumented history, while representing a formidable masterclass in strategic brand architecture and marketing. In other words, I think I have created what will not only be one of the most beautiful sets of coffee table books, but will offer the equivalent of an MBA and marketing degree by exploring what makes Rolex tick. I hope to launch volume 1 of this book series later this year, probably in September, but you can see the cover art pictured above, and the back of the book artwork pictured below.

The Rolex Oyster ad pictured below (discovered by Nick Gould) was published in November of 1927 and is the earliest known Rolex Magazine advertisement for the "ROLEX OYSTER". 

The 1927 Rolex Oyster advertisement pictured below appears in Volume 2 of my upcoming Rolex history book series and represents one of the earliest Rolex Magazine advertisements for Rolex's then new Rolex 'OYSTER' models, and offers fascinating insight into the brilliant marketing mind of Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf. This Rolex Magazine ad really sums up the essence of the Rolex Oyster, and it was published 99 years ago.

The vintage Rolex Magazine ad below is from 1928 and offers brilliant insight into the genesis of the Rolex Oyster being used as an aquatic watch.

Below we see a fascinating article, discovered by Nick Gould, from the Sales Management Magazine that was published on August 31, 1929, which was an American publication, that discussed the subject topic of "How Rolex Watches Won National Distribution in England".

The image below features British actress, Evelyn Laye, which was mentioned in the article above on the Rolex Oyster.

The image below was published in 1932 and showcases a Rolex Oyster in a fishbowl, which shows why Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf was "THE ORIGINAL MAD MAN OF WATCHMAKING".

Hans Wilsdorf was a marketing and watchmaking pioneer—light-years ahead of his time. Rolex’s sponsorship of the Academy Awards today is a modern manifestation of a marketing approach that began with its founder, Hans Wilsdorf. Close to a century ago, Wilsdorf was already incorporating Hollywood glamour into Rolex Magazine advertisements, as seen in this 1932 ‘Rolex Oyster’ ad featuring tinseltown actress Edwina Booth. 

Long before celebrity endorsements became a cornerstone of modern advertising, Wilsdorf recognized their potential to transform Rolex into a status symbol of aspiration, and sophistication. 

This bold move showcased Rolex’s early adoption of celebrity allure. The advertisement depicted Booth admiring a ‘Rolex Oyster’ wristwatch floating in a fishbowl, linking the brand to Hollywood’s golden age prestige. Wilsdorf’s innovative use of storytelling and endorsements established Rolex as a luxury icon, paving the way for its current high-profile Academy Awards partnership.

The Rolex Magazine ad for the Rolex Oyster below was published in 1936.

WATCHES AND WONDERS: YACHT-MASTER II

WATCHES AND WONDERS

...A CELEBRATION OF 100 YEARS OF THE OYSTER...

 YACHT-MASTER II 

Sleek, Simplified & Modernized

Rolex's YACHT-MASTER is one of the newest and most modern models in their catalog, and it all began with the standard ROLEX YACHT-MASTER. That being said, this story is about the second variant of the Rolex YACHT-MASTER, known as the Rolex YACHT-MASTER II.

Rolex's has a fascinating history of discontinuing models and then bringing them back years later, and at Watches and Wonders 2026, they introduced a completely new YACHT-MASTER II in Oystersteel and well as in yellow gold. If you are not familiar with the YACHT-MASTER II, it's designed for timing Regatta starts.

I have never really been much into sailing, or timing regattas, so it's kind of hard for me to relate to this model, but on a positive note I think Rolex did a great job by simplifying this model, and it looks kinda cool to me, as it's a really bold Rolex at 44MM. Despite being on the larger size, my understanding is Rolex really focused on optimizing the curvature of the case to fit the wrist, so despite being a larger watch, is wears smaller on the wrist, which is a good thing. 

Also, I REALLY like the white matt lacquer dial and the JUMBO 5-Minute makers. You can learn much more about this YACHT-MASTER II model as well as Rolex's yellow gold version of this model in Rolex's Newsroom.

Tudor @ Watches and Wonders 2026

WATCHES AND WONDERS

...Coverage...

 Tudor 1926-2026 

100 Year Anniversary 

The history of the Tudor brand is complex and fascinating at the same time. In 1926, which was 100 years ago, was a seminal year for Rolex as they launched their most innovative watch, which was the Rolex Oyster, but in the same year, Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf, also launched his Tudor brand, and in the image below we see the original "THE TUDOR" trademark registration.

Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre sat down with the super cool Tudor representative, Cole Pennington to discuss all the Tudor Novelties at Watches and Wonders, as Tudor, which is still owned by Rolex, celebrates its 100 year anniversary.

Britt Pearce

Britt Pearce shares her fascinating thoughts and opinions on the new Tudor novelties in the video below:

Adrian Barker

Adrian Barker offers his insight and perspective in the video below on Tudor's 2026 novelties.

36MM Stainless Oyster Perpetual...Multicolored Laquer Dial with Jubilee Motif

WATCHES AND WONDERS

...36MM Stainless Oyster Perpetual...

 

MULTICOLOR 

Laquer Dial 

Avante-Garde Jubilee Motif

"The WARHOL OP"

Andy Warhol looks a scream

Wear him on my wrist

Andy Warhol, Silver OP

Can't tell them apart at all

The all new 36MM Multicolored Laquer Dial "Jubilee Motif" dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual is getting a lot of attention based upon its striking PoP Art dial, and I am going to go out on a limb my nicknaming it "The Warhol". Just like, The Pepsi GMT, The Coke GMT, The Batman GMT, The RootBeer GMT, The Kermit Submariner, The Hulk Submariner, etc.—you get the idea.

Rolex said their inspiration for the lacquered dial was the from "the Jubilee motif introduced at the end of the 1970s, which has since become iconic". Rolex loves playing around with colors, and this reminds me of Rolex's Basel World 2018 introduction of the RAINBOW Daytona.

When I say this new Rolex model has Pop Art vibe, it totally reminds me of Andy Warhol's PoP Art. In the photo below we see Andy Warhol with his Protoge, Jean-Micel Basquiat, and we see Andy rocking his ladies 28MM yellow gold Datejust on a President Bracelet. 

Andy Warhol pictured above wearing his Rolex Datejust with Protégé, Jean-Michel Basquait

The color palette of the new Rolex dial totally reminds me of Jean-Michel Basquait's masterpiece which is pictured below

"Untitled," 1982 Jean-Michel Basquiat Painting sold for $110.5 Million on May 18, 2017

The new dial also reminds me very much of the repetitive square grid of Andy Warhol's pop art, like with his famous Marilyn print grid layouts as pictured below.

Repetitive Grid alignment was a trademark of Andy Warhol, which is a fascinating way to layout artwork, as his original inspiration was that of comic books.

The all new 36MM Multicolored Laquer Dial "Jubilee Motif" dial Oyster Perpetual is getting a lot of attention based upon its striking PoP Art dial. Rolex said their inspiration for the lacquered dial was the from "the Jubilee motif introduced at the end of the 1970s, which has since become iconic".

One More Thang
Our Captain Danny, who publishes Coronet.org shared this image with me from the Screw Down Crown Newsletter, which might provide another clue as to the genesis or inspiration behind the colorway grid design, which is a blanket, made by Artist Alighiero Boetti. Alighiero Boetti was a 20th century Italian conceptual artist, and was also a member of the Arte Povera movement. 

Boetti was famous for a series of embroidered maps of the world, “Mappa,” created between 1971 and his death in 1994, and also created the embroidery pictured above in 1988 which looks very similar to the dial on the new Rolex OP model.

This all new Rolex dial design from Rolex is achieved with a ten color printing process, as pictured below:


Rolex Jubilee Guilloché Dial Inspiration
As mentioned, the all new Multicolored Rolex Lacquer Dial with the Jubilee Motif was inspired by Rolex's original Jubilee Motif dials which incorporated a Guilloché engraving design.

Rolex began making the original Rolex Jubilee dials back in the late 1970s and in 1985 to celebrate the 40th Anniversary of the Datejust, by engraving solid gold disk dials with the "ROLEX" logo monogram. 
When Rolex invited me to be part of a group of the first journalists to tour all four Rolex factories in Switzerland, eleven years ago, back in 2013, Rolex explained to us that there was NOT a computerized CNC method that could achieve the same magic process, which the Guilloché can.  

In the photo below we see the Rolex dial Guilloché process taking place. The way it works, is the Guilloché master engraving disk is located on the left side in the photo below, and it has the master pattern that is being engraved in miniature scale on the gold Rolex dial which we see located on the right side in the center of the engraving apparatus.

I will NEVER forget, that when the four of us (pictured below) were touring the Rolex factories in Switzerland, the Rolex Public Relations representatives told us not to touch the Guilloché machine, while it was running in front of us, as doing so would cause the machine to fail, and Arial Adams, from A Blog To Watch, reached out and touched the machine anyway, and messed up the engraving, which was so bizarre!?!! 
I mean somebody tells you specifically NOT to do something, and you do it anyway, which was like the Spiros Antonapoulous character in opening scene from the 1968 classic Alan Arkin movie: "The Heart Is A Lonely Hunter", who walks by the local bakery and sees tasty deserts in the window, and uncontrollably decides to break the glass to get to the desert since it looks so intriguing to him. Below is a picture of Ben Clymer, James Dowling, Ariel Adams and myself visiting the Rolex Wonka Works in Switzerland back in 2013.

Benjamin Clymer, James Dowling, Ariel Adams, and Jake Ehrlich November 19, 2013 Rolex Factories Tour in Bienne/Biel, Switzerland (Hodinkee.com, Timezone.com, ABlogToWatch.com, and RolexMagazine.com)