Thursday, April 23, 2026

Watches and Wonders 2026 Introduction: Enamel Dial Daytona




WATCHES AND WONDERS

...Another "Unobtainium" new Rolex Daytona...

 Enamel Dial 
Rolesium Daytona


I must admit, this new Rolex Daytona has left me utterly perplexed. It’s labeled as “Off Catalog,” meaning it won’t be available for sale at Rolex authorized dealerships or on Rolex.com. Essentially it’s a stainless steel model with a platinum bezel and caseback that retails for $57,800. The irony is that you won’t be able to purchase one! It’s reminiscent of the Le Mans Rolex Daytona.



Benjamin Clymer from Hodinkee penned an exceptional article that unravels the mystery surrounding this highly enigmatic new Rolex Daytona model. Additionally, he has created an excellent video (below) that delves into all the intricate details of this novel Rolesium Daytona Rolex that was showcased at Watches and Wonders 2026.



Ben Clymer’s brilliant overview story, which I had linked to Hodinkee in the previous paragraph, included a section titled “Five Things I Don’t Love About The Rolex Daytona Reference 126502”. His second constructive criticism point was:


2. That it (The New Rolesium Daytona) has an open case back. This isn't a new gripe – the Le Mans is literally my favorite watch, but I believe a Rolex should have a closed case back. They don't need to play the game everyone else does by showing off what's inside.

I have a completely different perspective on this issue compared to Ben, and I strongly believe the antithesis. In my opinion, all Rolex watches absolutely deserve to have exhibition casebacks instead of keeping their movements closed. Rolex movements are truly remarkable masterpieces, and there are numerous compelling reasons why they should be showcased.


Rolex, in the 1920s, essentially invented and pioneered the exhibition caseback on early wristwatches. This innovation enabled their sales agents to showcase the precision engineering and well-designed intricate features of Rolex movements to jewelers. 


Below, we find an early Rolex Oyster with an exhibition caseback from the late 1920s. This exquisite watch showcases the magnificently gorgeous EXTRA PRIMA Rolex movement. It’s important to clarify that, according to the best scholarship, Rolex never produced these stunning watches with exhibition casebacks for sale to the public. However, some of these watches have been preserved, and I’ve written extensively about them in the past.



In the early 1930s, after Rolex introduced their groundbreaking Rolex Oyster Perpetual movement, they once again crafted exhibition casebacks to demonstrate their workings to salesmen. Notably, the one we observe below has remained intact over time.


To clarify, both the Rolex Oyster depicted above and the Rolex Oyster Perpetual shown below feature crystal-clear glass casebacks that showcase their movements, despite appearing as if their casebacks have been removed. 

Rolex, renowned for its unwavering commitment to precision and reliability in its movements, recently shifted its focus to enhancing the aesthetic appeal of these movements, as illustrated in the image below.



JAKE'S TAKE

On the one hand, I find this Rolex to be visually appealing, particularly the exhibition caseback. However, I am deeply perplexed by why Rolex, given the lengthy waiting list for the classic stainless steel Daytona, doesn’t prioritize resolving that issue over creating a $60,000 watch that is practically unattainable!?!!



If I were the CEO of Rolex, I would introduce the exhibition caseback as an optional feature for all Rolex watches. Additionally, I would prioritize the development of more affordable models that are readily available for immediate purchase. 


This new Rolex Daytona model kind of reminds me of how automobile manufactures tease the public with super appealing concept cars that never become available to the public in the future.


This new model boasts a stunningly crafted lacquered dial and an intriguing new bezel insert that offers exceptional durability. I believe these enhancements would be a valuable addition to the standard stainless steel Daytona. I am optimistic that this platinum and stainless steel Daytona model will serve as an advanced research and development (R&D) Rolex, incorporating experimental features that will eventually be integrated into the standard stainless steel models.



For clarity’s sake, I would like Rolex to consider offering premium upgrades to their basic models. For instance, with a stainless steel Daytona, customers could upgrade the dial, bezel, and add an exhibition caseback. This could potentially increase the retail price by around $4,000.


Rolex provides a detailed explanation of their design process for this new model.




I WANT A GOOD WATCH
not an  
UNOBTAINABLE WATCH

The brochure below, published in 1961 for the Rolex Submariner [Reference 5512], was the subject of my previous opinion in an article I published years ago:


"This super-cool, ultra-fascinating 1961 Rolex Submariner brochure perfectly sums up the raw core essence of Rolex and is one of my absolute favorite pieces of vintage Rolex collateral marketing material! I would go so far as to say this quintessential timeless document is as close as Rolex has ever come to writing a constitution..."


This "I WANT A GOOD WATCH" Rolex brochure was published shortly after Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, passed away. In my opinion, Rolex would better serve its customers by producing “GOOD WATCHES” that are affordable and accessible, rather than creating “OFF CATALOG” models that are so expensive and essentially unattainable.


Simply put, Rolex should focus on producing “GOOD WATCHES” that people can afford and obtain, rather than creating “UNOBTAINABLE WATCHES” that are far out of reach for most consumers. 



As previously mentioned, hopefully this new model is just an advanced R&D model with features that will eventually evolve into the standard stainless Daytona that everybody wants, and hopefully Rolex address the confusing issue of long waiting lists. 


I am old enough to remember, back in the 1980s, when I would walk into any Rolex dealer, and their showcases counters featured EVERY Rolex model available for immediate sale...hopefully Rolex will figure out a way to get us closer to that standard in the future...

Tuesday, April 21, 2026

GMT-MASTER Gone With The Wind




WATCHES AND WONDERS

...Chickens one day. Feathers the next...


 GMT-MASTER 

Gone With The Wind  



They say if you live long enough you will see everything. I remember the first time Rolex discontinued the stainless steel Pepsi GMT-Master back in 2008, which completely freaked me out!!!

Then they brought back the stainless steel Pepsi in 2018 [Reference 126710BLRO, pictured above and below] to critical acclaim, and last week at Watches and Wonders in Switzerland Rolex shocked the collectors community by discontinuing it yet again. 

Discontinuing Rolex models is usually not that big a deal, but discontinuing the GMT-Master, which is one of Rolex's most historically popular professional sports tool watches on the surface is totally bizarre!


So what is going on exactly? Why on earth world Rolex discontinue one of it's most successful and iconic models?

I don't know, but several sources I have spoken with have suggested that Rolex plans to reintroduce a new model of the Pepsi GMT that is significantly updated, including an updated movement. Rolex has a special event coming up in several weeks on May 12, and who knows? Maybe Rolex will surprise us by launching an all new GMT-Master? Hopefully...

Monday, April 20, 2026

WATCHES AND WONDERS, 100th Anniversary Rolex Oyster




WATCHES AND WONDERS

...A CELEBRATION OF 100 YEARS OF THE OYSTER...

 100th Anniversary 

Rolex Oyster



Rolex's teaser video showed the detail pictured below a few days before Watches and Wonders 2026 got underway, which features the "100 YEARS" dial designation in the position where Rolex usually places the "SWISS MADE" dial designation.



Let's closely examine the details of this very interesting Rolex novelty and then we will dive into the history of the Rolex OYSTER in order to properly contextualize this beauty. Rolex, in their own words perfectly introduce the features that set this beauty apart:


The first thing we notice is this watch has so much Rolex Oyster DNA, while incorporating a number of different new features that serve to really differentiate this model that celebrates 100 YEARS of the Rolex Oyster. 

To the best of my knowledge, Rolex has NEVER made a modern two-tone Oyster Perpetual, or any model for that matter, that ONLY has a yellow gold bezel without making the center links of the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet in matching yellow gold. This subtle change in appearance really sets this watch apart.


I would say this Rolex has a unique vibe, all its own, in that it really is retro-futuristic, in a totally classic and timeless way only Rolex could produce. In other words, it looks like it's from the past, and future simultaneously, which is what makes it so timeless.

Also, the 60 Second track that runs around the 5-Second baton markers, features square markers in Rolex green, which also match the "ROLEX" dial designation which is unusual. By screen printing the "ROLEX" dial designation in green, is kind of camouflages it, so then words "OYSTER PERPETUAL" REALLY stand out and pop. 

In other words, traditionally Rolex prints both lines in white so they both pop, but on his model, Rolex really put the primary focus on "OYSTER PERPETUAL", far more than on "ROLEX", which makes perfect sense as this watch clearly celebrates the 100th Anniversary of the Rolex Oyster.




HISTORY REPEATS ITSELF

       “The vision recurs; the eastern sun has a second rise; history repeats her tale unconsciously, and goes off into a mystic rhyme; ages are prototypes of other ages, and the winding course of time brings us round to the same spot again.”  

—Mystic Rhyme 1845

1956 
Rolex Oyster Perpetual

The ROLEX Magazine ad below was originally published in 1956, which was 70 years ago on the 30th Anniversary of the the Rolex Oyster, and notice the unmistakable doubled-up timeless design language for the 15, 30 and 45 minute baton markers, which I originally published in 2022. This design language feature was incorporated into the most recent Rolex Oyster Perpetual models when they were introduced in 2020. This design language not only stands testament to what makes Rolex watches so timeless, but also illustrates how Rolex has almost perfectly maintained its design language secret formula.



JAKE'S TAKE

I have one detail I would LOVE to see Rolex incorporate which I think would improve Rolex models like the Oyster Perpetual, and that would be to bring back the dauphin pointed sword style hands from the mid 1950s. Dauphin hands from the 1950s represented late art deco, known as Populuxe, which was more of a futuristic, space age, modern, sharp, clean streamlined look. 

As we see in the 1956 Rolex Magazine "ROLEX OYSTER" ad pictured above, it featured dauphin hands, which I think are infinitely more "ROLEXY", and I think Rolex should offer them as an option. In other words, I think Rolex should still offer their standard lumed rectangular hands as pictured below on the "100 YEARS" model, but I think they should also offer the retro 1950s dauphin hands, as I mocked up on the left side, which create a lot more visual interest and contrast, while making the watch look more vintage/retro and sharp looking. 


For frame of reference, the photo below shows a 1956 Rolex Oyster Perpetual with the dual baton markers coupled with dauphin hands, and appears courtesy of OldTimer.Watch. This appears to be remarkably similar to the model featured above in the 1956 Rolex Magazine ad with the difference being the one pictured below is on a Rolex Oyster strap, as apposed to the one in the ad being on a leather strap.


THE ROLEX CHRONICLES
By JAKE EHRLICH

Speaking of "JAKE'S TAKE", I have an interesting update to share with you on my book series I have been working of for years now. In my books series, I go into great detail on the history of the Rolex Oyster, which is deeply profound on many levels, as the Rolex Oyster is arguably on of the most most profound watch innovations in history.


I have been working on a series of books now, which are up to 28 volumes, which makes my book series titled "THE ROLEX CHRONICLES by JAKE EHRLICH" a veritable encyclopedia on Rolex History.



After a lot of thought, I decided my first Rolex book series will be on the subject of "ROLEX'S FOUNDING FATHERS", and the first four volumes cover then entire life journey of Rolex's legendary founder, Hans Wilsdorf. In other words, my book series covers his entire lifetime of achievements from cradle to grave, then continues on with books on the other three men who are most responsible for creating the most timeless and renowned brands in history.

For the record, this series reveals a great deal of previously undocumented history, while representing a formidable masterclass in strategic brand architecture and marketing. In other words, I think I have created what will not only be one of the most beautiful sets of coffee table books, but will offer the equivalent of an MBA and marketing degree by exploring what makes Rolex tick. I hope to launch volume 1 of this book series later this year, probably in September, but you can see the cover art pictured above, and the back of the book artwork pictured below.




1927
Earliest Rolex Oyster Ads

The Rolex Oyster ad pictured below (discovered by Nick Gould) was published in November of 1927 and is the earliest known Rolex Magazine advertisement for the "ROLEX OYSTER". 


The 1927 Rolex Oyster advertisement pictured below appears in Volume 2 of my upcoming Rolex history book series and represents one of the earliest Rolex Magazine advertisements for Rolex's then new Rolex 'OYSTER' models, and offers fascinating insight into the brilliant marketing mind of Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf. This Rolex Magazine ad really sums up the essence of the Rolex Oyster, and it was published 99 years ago.



1928
Rolex Oyster Ad

The vintage Rolex Magazine ad below is from 1928 and offers brilliant insight into the genesis of the Rolex Oyster being used as an aquatic watch.



1929
Rolex Magazine Story

Below we see a fascinating article, discovered by Nick Gould, from the Sales Management Magazine that was published on August 31, 1929, which was an American publication, that discussed the subject topic of "How Rolex Watches Won National Distribution in England".



The image below features British actress, Evelyn Laye, which was mentioned in the article above on the Rolex Oyster.



1932
Rolex Oyster Fishbowl

The image below was published in 1932 and showcases a Rolex Oyster in a fishbowl, which shows why Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf was "THE ORIGINAL MAD MAN OF WATCHMAKING".


Hans Wilsdorf was a marketing and watchmaking pioneer—light-years ahead of his time. Rolex’s sponsorship of the Academy Awards today is a modern manifestation of a marketing approach that began with its founder, Hans Wilsdorf. Close to a century ago, Wilsdorf was already incorporating Hollywood glamour into Rolex Magazine advertisements, as seen in this 1932 ‘Rolex Oyster’ ad featuring tinseltown actress Edwina Booth. 

Long before celebrity endorsements became a cornerstone of modern advertising, Wilsdorf recognized their potential to transform Rolex into a status symbol of aspiration, and sophistication. 

This bold move showcased Rolex’s early adoption of celebrity allure. The advertisement depicted Booth admiring a ‘Rolex Oyster’ wristwatch floating in a fishbowl, linking the brand to Hollywood’s golden age prestige. Wilsdorf’s innovative use of storytelling and endorsements established Rolex as a luxury icon, paving the way for its current high-profile Academy Awards partnership.



1932
Rolex Magazine
Fishbowl Ad

The Rolex Magazine ad for the Rolex Oyster below was published in 1936.

Friday, April 17, 2026

WATCHES AND WONDERS: YACHT-MASTER II



WATCHES AND WONDERS

...A CELEBRATION OF 100 YEARS OF THE OYSTER...

 YACHT-MASTER II 

Sleek, Simplified & Modernized


Rolex's YACHT-MASTER is one of the newest and most modern models in their catalog, and it all began with the standard ROLEX YACHT-MASTER. That being said, this story is about the second variant of the Rolex YACHT-MASTER, known as the Rolex YACHT-MASTER II.

Rolex's has a fascinating history of discontinuing models and then bringing them back years later, and at Watches and Wonders 2026, they introduced a completely new YACHT-MASTER II in Oystersteel and well as in yellow gold. If you are not familiar with the YACHT-MASTER II, it's designed for timing Regatta starts.

I have never really been much into sailing, or timing regattas, so it's kind of hard for me to relate to this model, but on a positive note I think Rolex did a great job by simplifying this model, and it looks kinda cool to me, as it's a really bold Rolex at 44MM. Despite being on the larger size, my understanding is Rolex really focused on optimizing the curvature of the case to fit the wrist, so despite being a larger watch, is wears smaller on the wrist, which is a good thing. 

Thursday, April 16, 2026

Tudor @ Watches and Wonders 2026



WATCHES AND WONDERS

...Coverage...

 Tudor 1926-2026 

100 Year Anniversary 


The history of the Tudor brand is complex and fascinating at the same time. In 1926, which was 100 years ago, was a seminal year for Rolex as they launched their most innovative watch, which was the Rolex Oyster, but in the same year, Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf, also launched his Tudor brand, and in the image below we see the original "THE TUDOR" trademark registration.



Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre sat down with the super cool Tudor representative, Cole Pennington to discuss all the Tudor Novelties at Watches and Wonders, as Tudor, which is still owned by Rolex, celebrates its 100 year anniversary.



Britt Pearce

Britt Pearce shares her fascinating thoughts and opinions on the new Tudor novelties in the video below:



Adrian Barker

Adrian Barker offers his insight and perspective in the video below on Tudor's 2026 novelties.