The Archetype

The Archetype

2017 Rolex Magazine Datejust Ad

Norman Rockwell's What Makes It Tick (The Watchmaker) Coming To Auction @ Christie's

Norman Rockwell's

What Makes It Tick (The Watchmaker)

Auctioned @ Christie's for $7,287,500

I was just looking thought the RolexMagazine.com archives and I rediscovered this story about how Hodinkee published a superb story about how Norman Rockwell's AMAZING painting, titled, "What makes it Tick? (The Watchmaker)", was coming to auction as part of Christie's November 2017 American Art Auction. It sold for over $7 Million included the buyers premium.

Norman Rockwell's "What Makes It Tick (The Watchmaker)" Painted in 1948

Hodinkee's Nicholas Manousos, wrote:

"In 1948 the Swiss Federation of Watchmakers, now known as the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), began work on an advertising campaign to raise the profile of Swiss watchmakers globally. The campaign needed an image that would make an immediate impact, communicating relatable aspects of watchmaking to a worldwide audience. They chose American illustrator Norman Rockwell for the job, and the result was an incredible painting of a boy, mesmerized by a watchmaker at the bench."

I definitely recommend heading over to Hodinkee to check out the rest of this great story! I am a huge fan of Norman Rockwell. He was just amazing!!! This painting was originally estimated to sell for between $4-6 Million...

JANNIK SINNER Captures First Wimbledon Crown in Thrilling Comeback

 

Wimbledon 2025

Men's Singles Champion
JANNIK SINNER 
Captures First Wimbledon Crown in Thrilling Comeback

In a riveting showdown at the All England Club, Jannik Sinner claimed his inaugural Wimbledon men's singles title on July 13, 2025, defeating two-time defending champion Carlos Alcaraz 4-6, 6-4, 6-4, 6-4. The world No. 1 from Italy overcame an early setback, losing the first set before dominating the next three in a match that lasted just over three hours on Centre Court.

Sinner, the top seed, showcased his powerful serve and baseline prowess throughout the tournament, dropping only two sets en route to the final. This victory marks his second Grand Slam title of 2025, following his Australian Open triumph earlier in the year, and makes him the first Italian man to win Wimbledon singles. At 23, Sinner's resilience was on full display as he turned the tide against the formidable Alcaraz, avenging previous losses and solidifying their budding rivalry.

As Rolex, the official timekeeper of Wimbledon since 1978, continues to celebrate precision in tennis, Sinner's triumph adds another chapter to the tournament's storied history. With this win, the young star cements his place among the elite, poised for even greater achievements in the seasons ahead.

Iga Świątek Wins Wimbledon 2025 Singles Championship

Wimbledon 2025

Women's Singles Champion
Iga Świątek 
Claims First Wimbledon Title in Dominant Fashion

In a stunning display of dominance, Iga Świątek captured her maiden Wimbledon women's singles championship on July 13, 2025, at the All England Club. The world No. 1 from Poland dismantled American Amanda Anisimova in straight sets, winning 6-0, 6-0 in just 57 minutes. This victory marks Świątek's sixth Grand Slam title overall and her first on grass, completing a remarkable run at the prestigious tournament.

Świątek, who entered Wimbledon as the top seed, showcased her exceptional all-court game throughout the fortnight. She dropped only one set en route to the final, overcoming tough opponents with her signature powerful groundstrokes and mental resilience. The 24-year-old has now won all six of her major finals, defeating a different opponent each time. Her triumph also makes her the fifth player in history to win the women's singles after previously claiming the girls' title at Wimbledon, joining legends like Martina Hingis and Ashleigh Barty.

This win solidifies Świątek's status as one of tennis's brightest stars, adding Wimbledon to her haul of four French Open titles and one US Open crown. As the tennis world looks ahead, Świątek's blend of precision and power promises even more success on the horizon.

Brad Pitt Rocking a Custom Rolex

...Rolex Super Coolness...

Brad Pitt

Rocking a Custom Vintage Early 1970s Rolex

This is a most interesting story about Brad Pitt, who has long worn Rolex watches, but this one seems to be unique, and it's totally RAD...Eagle Eyes, Nick Gould discovered Brad rocking this most unusual vintage Rolex.

Brad Pitt is wearing a customized Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Reference 1530, that has had its date complication removed, and its dial repainted. At first glance, you would think this is a Rolex OysterQuartz, which I just published a huge story on named "The Complete History of ROLEX OYSTERQUARTZ".

Just to be clear, this watch is NOT an OysterQuartz model. IT is an Oyster Perpetual model with a mechanical Caliber 1575 movement, and man this is one cool looking watch. It looks so much better without the date, which arguably disrupted its balance and symmetry. This perfect balance brings to mind the standard Submariner model v. the Submariner Date. Just as Brad Pitt is super cool, so is this custom vintage Rolex. I also could not help but notice the customizer removed the "T SWISS T", which typically appeared on the bottom of these watch dials, which contributes to the simplicity of this watch, and also seems like it may have been by design...

The story of the Rolex 1530 is really interesting. My understanding is that Rolex developed this new case and bracelet design language for the OysterQuartz model in 1974, but decided to delay the introduction of the OysterQuartz until 1977. But Rolex wanted to test their sharp and ultra-modern new design language, so they made somewhere around 1,500 Reference 1530 models.

Brad purchased this watch from the Cloister Watch Company, which has a slogan of "Vintage timepieces reimagined with exceptional design and craftsmanship". does all the customs for Brad, which are done by Charlie Grey, who specializes in customizing vintage Rolex watches. My understanding is that Brat Pitt has a large collection of customized vintage Rolex watches. 

You can see a bunch of video footage of Brad Pitt rocking this custom Rolex in a FORMULA 1 video entitled "Brad Pitt Drives an F1 Car For The First Time | Full Day With McLaren". 

So Brad Pitt has a new mega hit movie that just came out named F1, and a new custom vintage Rolex...Some guys have all the luck...and skill...and great looks...and fame...and money...and everything...

Rolex Macro Shot Of The Day: Mr. K's Rolex President Bracelet Up Close

...Rolex Macro Shot Of The Day...

Mr. K's Rolex President Bracelet Up Close

Vogue Rolex Magazine Ad: 1974 Princess Diana Vibe

 Vogue Rolex Magazine Ad

1974 Princess Diana Vibe

One of my favorite things on Jake's Rolex World is when I discover a really cool vintage Rolex advertisement that was previously undocumented, and that is the case with this beauty that appeared in Vogue Magazine in 1974. I LOVE THIS AD, which features a cool Pucci outfit, and a model who kind of looks like Princess Diana—doesn't she!?!!

I recently learned J. Walter Thompson was responsible for somewhere around 90% of Rolex magazine ads during the 1970s and 1980s, so if you sense a British sensibility vibe in Rolex ads from that era this would explain it.

The Complete History of ROLEX OYSTERQUARTZ

...BACK TO THE FUTURE...

ROLEX OYSTERQUARTZ

The Complete History

For years, I’ve intended to write this definitive account of the Rolex OysterQuartz, a timepiece that represents an absolutely fascinating chapter in Rolex’s storied legacy. 

The recent introduction of Rolex’s new Land-Dweller sparked a renewed curiosity, prompting me to delve much deeper into the Rolex OysterQuartz’s history. What began as preliminary research has evolved into this comprehensive narrative, drawing on previously untapped sources and overlooked details.

While many have attempted to chronicle the OysterQuartz’s journey, no account has come remotely close to fully captured its complete story—until now. 

This article unveils, for the first time, many undocumented elements of Rolex’s history, shedding new light on a watch that defied convention while redefining precision. 

Reference 5100 Oyster Quartz

The Dawn of Rolex Electronic Timekeeping?

Rolex’s Reference 5100, the brand’s first publicly available electronic watch, developed in the late 1960s, and first showcased to the public in the early 1970s, marks a pivotal moment in horological history. This groundbreaking timepiece, pictured below, introduced Rolex to the world of electronic movements, challenging the brand’s mechanical heritage. 

Beyond its historical roots, this article explores a timeless debate: Which reigns supreme—mechanical or electronic movements? My argument challenges conventional wisdom, proposing a bold and unexpected solution: a hybrid approach that combines the best of both worlds.

For many purists, even raising this question borders on heresy. The prevailing sentiment enshrines Rolex as the pinnacle of mechanical watchmaking, where any nod to quartz or electronic technology is deemed unthinkable, a betrayal of tradition. Yet, Rolex’s legacy is not one of stagnation but of relentless innovation, often defying expectations with groundbreaking advancements.

To illustrate, consider a recent patent granted to Rolex, published on June 5, 2025, titled 'named 'REGULATING SYSTEM FOR A TIMEPIECE', This document offers a fascinating glimpse into Rolex’s forward-thinking vision, detailing a sophisticated system that could redefine the brand’s trajectory and reshape the future of horology.

Later in this article, I will delve deeper into the potentially revolutionary implications of this recent Rolex patent, exploring how it could reshape the future of watchmaking.

By exploring the OysterQuartz’s legacy, this article reveals how Rolex’s foray into electronic and hybrid technologies reflects a forward-thinking ethos that continues to shape its future narrative.

This article profoundly introduces newly uncovered original source material that fundamentally reshapes our understanding of horological history and makes a significant contribution to horological scholarship. 

Astonishingly, these documents reveal that Rolex, guided by the visionary leadership of founder, Hans Wilsdorf, may have been the true pioneer of the electronic wristwatch!!!!

This groundbreaking discovery challenges long-standing assumptions about Rolex’s timeline and its role in the evolution of watchmaking, cementing the brand’s status as a trailblazer in a field previously thought to be led by others.

Pictured above: We see legendary tennis player, Rocking Roger Federer, ever the style icon, sporting an early 1970s Rolex Quartz Reference 5100, in 2025 at Paris Fashion Week.  Is this a nostalgic nod to the past, or a subtle hint of Rolex’s future direction?

Let Me Take You on a Trip

Around the World and Back

I’d like to extend my heartfelt gratitude to Nick Gould for his invaluable insights and contributions to this story. His expertise has been a cornerstone in piecing together this fascinating tale.

In my forthcoming 24-book series, which covers The Complete Rolex History Arc, I explore the full sweep of Rolex’s legacy, including its pioneering role in the evolution of both electronic and quartz watches. This upcoming series is a veritable Encyclopedia of all Rolex history, and is titled, "THE ROLEX CHRONICLES: A FASCINATING JOURNEY THOUGH TIME by JAKE EHRLICH". The preview image below shows the working titles of all 24 of my volumes, which are currently about 85%+ of the way done.

Initially, I planned to keep this unexplored chapter under wraps until the series' full release. However, the recent unveiling of Rolex’s groundbreaking LAND-DWELLER, a testament to their relentless innovation, has created the perfect moment to reveal this captivating slice of horological history. 

This article offers a glimpse into the meticulous research and engaging narrative style that define my upcoming 24-volume magnum opus.

The Neutral Edge 

Switzerland’s Horological Reign

Let's step into the Rolex Time Machine and journey back a century to uncover the true origins of what set Rolex in motion, igniting its enduring legacy, and let's figure out what really made Rolex tick! 

Before World War II, the United States wielded an unexpected advantage in timekeeping and watchmaking, its ingenuity rivaling Europe’s most celebrated artisans. In the 1930s, the U.S. arguably led the world in industrialized watch production and market reach. 

Companies like Gruen, Waterbury, Waltham, Elgin, and Hamilton had harnessed the power of assembly-line techniques, rooted in the American System of Manufacturing, to churn out reliable, affordable timepieces at an unmatched scale. 

Humble Beginnings 

As a matter of fact, the Rolex movement factory in Bienne, Switzerland—known then as Aegler S.A. and now fully owned by Rolex—is pictured below in photos taken almost a century ago, in 1925. 

At that time, Aegler S.A. produced movements not only for Rolex but also for Gruen, an American company that ranked among the largest watch manufacturers in the United States.

Gruen was founded in 1894 by the German-born watchmaker Dietrich Grün, who later anglicized his name to "Gruen" since the letter "ü" does not exist in the English alphabet.

Back then, Aegler S.A. manufactured very high-quality, precise movements for Gruen in Switzerland and exported them directly to the United States. There, they were adjusted, fitted with dials, and encased by American craftsmen. 

This process highlights the somewhat counterintuitive, interconnected nature of the global watch market at the time—it wasn't a simple rivalry between nations or a zero-sum game, but rather a highly synergistic collaboration that benefited all involved.

If we zoom out on the photo pictured above, we get the images seen below which show the Rolex factory in 1925, one year before Rolex invented and brought their famous Oyster waterproof model to market. 

It is interesting to see how much undeveloped land there was around the Rolex factory back in the 1920s, and as we see it appears to be located in a somewhat residential neighborhood. These low altitude photos were either taken from a hot air balloon or an early airplane.

The image below is from Google Maps and shows what the old Rolex movement factory in Bienne, Switzerland looks like today. The original factory, pictured above was built in 1881, and expanded significantly by the 1920s, as we see in the image below.

The image below shows the Aegler SA/Rolex movement production campus back in 1955, and notice the Gruen signs are gone.

Below is another photo of the Rolex factory, taken from a different angle, back in the 1920s.

The building complex still exists and has been repurposed as part of the Bern University of Applied Sciences (BFH) for its Technical and Computing departments. It retains much of its original architecture, including some outdoor ROLEX signage echoing its watchmaking past, though it's no longer used for manufacturing. If you look closely at the building located in the photo below, you will notice in the upper right hand corner, you will notice it has a HUGE ROLEX Logo sign on it as well.

Twelve years ago, back in 2013, Rolex invited me to be part of a group of online journalists/bloggers to be the first to tour all four Rolex manufacturing facilities in Switzerland. This was the one of the most amazing experiences of my life, and I remember feeling like I was Charlie and had found a golden ticket to tour the Wonkaworks Factory. 

On our way to the modern and current Rolex movement factory in Bienne, Switzerland, on November 19, 2013, I took the photo seen above of the old Rolex movement factory, which can be seen in the image above located in the upper right hand corner of the image. It was a overcast cloudy day in Bienne, but the sun was shining in my mind...

American Horology 

American industrial prowess democratized horology, placing watches on the wrists of everyday Americans—a feat Switzerland, with its devotion to artisanal luxury and meticulous craftsmanship, couldn’t replicate in volume.

Yet Switzerland held an unshakable grip on the pinnacle of watchmaking. Brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and the burgeoning Rolex, defined precision, elegance, and technical mastery. 

By the 1930s, Swiss watches were the global benchmark for sophistication, their reputation forged through decades of relentless innovation. 

For instance, my namesake grandfather, Jake Ehrlich Sr., sported a Patek Philippe pocket watch, while my father, Jake Ehrlich Jr., favored a Patek Philippe wristwatch, both embodying the refined elegance of distinguished American gentlemen. The photograph below captures my grandfather Jake, a renowned San Francisco lawyer, showcasing his gold watch chain fob, subtly hinting at the Patek Philippe pocket watch attached, though it remains just out of view.

The outbreak of World War II in 1939 shattered this delicate balance. As the world descended into chaos, American industry pivoted sharply, redirecting its mechanical genius to wartime demands. 

Factories once alive with the rhythmic tick of watch movements were transformed into arsenals, crafting bomb fuses, timing mechanisms, gyroscopes, accelerometers, guidance subsystems, and various other miniature precision items and military gear. Horology took a backseat as the U.S. mobilized for conflict. 

Meanwhile, Switzerland’s neutrality became its secret weapon. Largely untouched by the ravages of war, its watchmakers continued to hone their craft, advancing techniques and designs with unbroken focus.

When peace dawned in 1945, Switzerland emerged as the undisputed sovereign of watchmaking. The United States, now a colossus of industrial might and consumer goods, struggled to reclaim its pre-war footing in the world of horology. 

American companies like Hamilton fought to hold on, but the tide had turned—by the late 1960s, Hamilton’s efforts culminated in a joint venture with Japan’s Ricoh, a sign of fading dominance. By the late 1940s, Swiss watchmakers commanded over 50% of global wristwatch production, their reign solidified.

While the Allies and Axis powers bled their resources dry through World War II’s grueling summers and frigid winters, locked in a struggle for supremacy, Switzerland stood apart—an oasis of calm amid the storm. 

In the heart of Geneva, as World War II cast its long shadow over Europe, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf felt the weight of conflict profoundly. The war’s disruptions—supply chain fractures, material shortages, and economic uncertainty—threatened to stifle his grand vision for the company he had nurtured since its inception in 1908. 

Yet Wilsdorf, no stranger to adversity, refused to falter. Having already navigated the challenges of World War I by relocating Rolex from London to Geneva to escape wartime restrictions, he drew upon that hard-won resilience. 

Far from retreating, Wilsdorf quietly fueled Rolex’s ambitions, channeling his frustration into innovation and strategic foresight. While the world grappled with chaos, Wilsdorf focused heavily on research and development, ensuring Rolex not only survived, but emerged stronger. 

Hans Wilsdorf's unwavering determination during those trying times laid the foundation for Rolex’s post-war success, cementing his legacy as a visionary who thrived in the face of limitation and adversity.

With steely resolve, Wilsdorf pushed the brand forward—innovating in the shadows, laying the foundation for a postwar legacy that would redefine timekeeping.

Hans Wilsdorf is pictured above in 1942, standing at the helm of his Rolex watchmaking facility in Geneva, intently overseeing the production of superlative Rolex timepieces. 

Amid the tumult of World War II, Rolex was quietly crafting a game-changer: the Rolex Datejust. Below we see the original "DATEJUST" trademark registration which was filed on February 12, 1944, which was 17 months prior to World War II ending!

Unveiled at the Basel Swiss Watch Fair in 1945, the DATEJUST model emerged as a visionary archetype, establishing the blueprint for every Rolex watch that followed—a legacy that endures to this day. 

Pause for a moment and consider this: when you compare the timeless elegance of the 1945 Rolex classic Datejust to the modern 2025 LAND-DWELLER pictured below on the right, the striking similarities and unmistakable DNA shared across eight decades become undeniable.

Go West Young Man

Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary founder of Rolex, possessed an extraordinary knack for seizing opportunity amid chaos. In 1945, as the world staggered out of World War II’s shadow, he turned his gaze across the Atlantic. Hans Wilsdorf is pictured below on April 30, 1946 in the only photo I am aware of that shows him casually dressed—without a necktie.

With Europe in ruins and the United States poised for a post-war economic surge, Wilsdorf saw untapped potential in America’s rising prosperity. In a calculated and audacious move, he traveled to the U.S. and acquired the American distributorship for Rolex, reimagining it as the formidable Rolex U.S.A.—a cornerstone of the brand’s global empire.

Wilsdorf’s genius extended beyond acquisition; he knew success hinged on exceptional leadership. To spearhead his American venture, he and his right hand man, René-Paul Jeanneret recruited Swiss born, René-Paul Dentan, Patek Philippe’s top U.S.A. based salesman, whose reputation for salesmanship was unrivaled. 

Appointing Dentan as head of sales for Rolex U.S.A., Wilsdorf issued a bold challenge: Construct a state-of-the-art sales, marketing, and distribution network capable of dominating the luxury watch market. Dentan rose to the occasion, weaving an intricate web of dealerships, service centers, and marketing channels—a robust framework that not only met Wilsdorf’s lofty expectations, but endures as a testament to their shared vision. Pictured above, we see my upcoming book dedicated to ROLEX U.S.A. PIONEER, RENÉ-PAUL DENTAN. 

Remarkably, Dentan’s story has remained untold, overshadowed despite his pivotal role as one of Rolex’s most influential figures. A Google search today yields scant trace of him, as if he vanished from history, and is a ghost in the machine. Yet, my forthcoming book unveils his extraordinary journey—a gripping, mind-boggling narrative that illuminates his indispensable contributions to Rolex’s legacy."

The Men Who Made Rolex

The image below was originally published in April of 1950 in the Jeweler's Circular Keystone publication, and shows René-Paul Jeanneret, head director of sales and advertising in Geneva, sitting next to vice-president and sales manager of the American Rolex Watch Corporation, René-Paul Dentan. 

Hans Wilsdorf's gamble paid off spectacularly. Fueled by a booming consumer culture and a wave of post-war affluence, the United States catapulted to become Rolex’s largest market—a dominance it retains to this day. 

Wilsdorf’s foresight, paired with Dentan’s execution, didn’t merely secure Rolex a foothold in North America; it elevated the brand into a global luxury titan. This triumph underscored Wilsdorf’s rare alchemy of ambition, intuition, and impeccable timing, cementing his legacy as a titan of industry.

The Rolex Time Machine

Did Rolex Invent The Electronic Watch?

Picture this: we step into a gleaming time machine, twist the dial to 1959, and whisk ourselves to Geneva, Switzerland—the year before Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf’s passing!!!

Our mission? To sit across from the visionary himself, in the flesh, for a once-in-a-lifetime chat. For this thought experiment, let’s cast aside skepticism, embrace the impossible, and leap back to 1959 for an imagined conversation with Wilsdorf.

After introducing ourselves as time travelers hailing from 2025, we’d begin by bridging the decades, recounting the extraordinary saga of Rolex’s evolution since his death in 1960—a legacy he could scarcely have dreamed of in its full scope.

I’m certain Hans Wilsdorf would glow with pride at the towering legacy his company built after his time.

Then, I’d lean in with the question that’s been simmering in my thoughts for decades: “Hans, less than a decade after your death, a seismic shift hit the watch world—electronic quartz movements. The ‘Quartz Crisis’ upended the Swiss watchmaking industry, wiping out two-thirds of its watchmakers. Yet Rolex didn’t just weather the storm; it emerged more formidable than ever. What do you make of that, and how would you have tackled electronic quartz technology if you lived another decade?”

I can almost hear Wilsdorf’s response, delivered with the quiet confidence of a man who spent his life mastering the art of timekeeping:

    “My entire career was consumed with perfecting the craft of precisely measuring time, so I’m hardly surprised by how things unfolded...

    In fact, I’ll let you in on a little secret: 

    Back in the late 1940s and early 1950s, we at Rolex were passionately experimenting with electric watches. These were remarkable creations, powered by battery technology we developed in-house as part of our confidetial R&D efforts. While the world knows Rolex for innovations like our Oyster case, or our Perpetual movement, we explored countless ideas behind closed doors—many of which never saw the light of day...”

Now, you might be wondering if I’ve lost my grip on reality, or if this is pure science fiction!?!! Rest assured—it’s neither. There’s REAL evidence to back this up. 

1952 Electric Rolex

The Spark That Rewrote Rolex’s Future

Take a look at Rolex Patent Application CH298956A, filed by Hans Wilsdorf and Rolex in Switzerland on May 13, 1952, which is pictured below. It reveals a design for an electric Rolex watch—a tangible testament to the brand’s forward-thinking experimentation long before the quartz era dawned.

 

Rolex didn’t stop at their electric watch experiments—they pushed the boundaries even further. On June 3, 1952, Wilsdorf and Rolex filed patent CH298261A in Switzerland for a groundbreaking dry electric battery design. A close reading of the patent reveals something astonishing: its intricate details on electrolytes and electrodes feel eerily prescient, almost like a blueprint for a modern-day Tesla battery. This wasn’t just a power source for a watch—it was a leap into the future of energy storage, dreamed up decades ahead of its time by Rolex in Geneva!:

Below we see another 1952 Rolex Patent for an entire Electric Rolex Watch, which was published on June 3, 1952 under the number CH297906A.

"Our hat is off to Rolex"

At this point, you might be wondering "What became of the electric watches Rolex developed in the early 1950s?" A fascinating glimpse into their progress comes from a July 1955 issue of the American Horologist and Jeweler, shedding light on Rolex’s pioneering efforts, with COSC Certification as well as with an Electronic Rolex Wristwatch as seen below:

Rolex may have held back from bringing their electric watches to market due to formidable technical challenges, most notably the corrosion issue spotlighted in the 1955 American Horologist and Jeweler as showcased above. The article points to galvanic corrosion as the primary hurdle—a problem stemming from the electrochemical reactions in early batteries, which were often zinc-carbon or mercury-based and prone to leaking.

In the presence of moisture, an electrolyte, these batteries caused dissimilar metals within the watch to corrode, risking damage to critical components like the movement and case. Rolex, having secured patents around 1952, was further along than competitors, but the technology of the time simply may not have been mature enough to meet the brand’s exacting standards for reliability and durability. As a result, Rolex did not release an electric watch in the 1950s. Or, perhaps more interestingly, Rolex had perfected the battery technology, but chose not to release it at that time?

It’s worth noting Rolex mirrors Apple in its approach to innovation: rather than being the first to pioneer new technologies, both brands excel at refining existing ideas, elevating them to their pinnacle of performance and design. This strategy may explain why Rolex waited nearly two decades before launching their first electrically powered watch, ensuring the technology aligned with their uncompromising standards for quality and precision.

The Dawn of Electronic Timekeeping

A Horological Revolution 

Electric wristwatches sprang into motion in the 1950s—a decade of bold innovation in horology. Early in the decade, a transatlantic collaboration between the U.S.-based Elgin Watch Company and the French firm, LIP, yielded a groundbreaking electromechanical wristwatch—one powered by a small battery rather than the traditional unwinding spring.

Though the LIP-Elgin partnership only managed to produce prototypes, their efforts paved the way for a milestone. In 1957, the American company Hamilton stole the spotlight with the Hamilton 500, the world’s first serially produced electric watch. 

Its iconic design, the Hamilton Ventura, became a cultural touchstone. Pictured below, we see the King of Rock ‘n’ Roll, Elvis Presley, rocking his Hamilton Ventura in 1957—a fitting emblem of the era’s electrifying spirit and the dawn of a new age in timekeeping.

The journey of electronic wristwatches took a dramatic turn in 1954 when Swiss engineer Max Hetzel unveiled a revolutionary timekeeping concept: an electronic wristwatch driven by an electrically charged tuning fork, powered by a 1.35-volt battery. Hetzel’s tuning fork vibrated at a precise 360 Hz, driving the watch hands through an electromechanical gear train. 

This innovation materialized as the Bulova Accutron, launched in 1960. Its tuning fork emitted a faint, otherworldly hum—a sound that reverberated through the Swiss watchmaking elite, shaking their faith in traditional mechanical movements. 

The Accutron’s remarkable precision raised a chilling question: could mechanical watches, like the pocket watches of a bygone era, fade into obscurity, much as digital photography supplanted film cameras?

Rolex, as we’ve seen, had already explored battery-powered technology by 1952, though their early electric watches were never offered to the public. By 1962, with the winds of change sweeping through the industry, Rolex joined the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH), a consortium of Switzerland’s leading watchmakers, in a united effort to counter the rising tide of electronic timekeeping. 

In a surprising twist, this alliance included brands often seen as Rolex’s rivals—Patek Philippe, Omega, and others—underscoring the Swiss watch industry’s deep unease in relation to the potentially disruptive impact of electronic watch technology.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe's foray into electronic timekeeping began in 1948 when Henri Stern, the company's president at the time, established the Electronic Timekeeping Division (also referred to as the electronics department) in Geneva. This move was inspired by Stern's exposure to advanced technologies during his extended stay in the United States from 1937 onward, where he witnessed rapid progress in electronics and precision timing. To support this new venture, Patek Philippe also set up a dedicated timekeeping laboratory capable of receiving precise time signals from the Neuchâtel Observatory in Switzerland, allowing for accurate synchronization and testing of their innovations.

Georges Delessert, Stern's half-brother, was appointed as the first director of the division, bringing technical expertise to lead the team. The primary goals were ambitious: to blend Patek Philippe's renowned mechanical craftsmanship with cutting-edge electronic science, ultimately creating the world's most accurate clocks and watches. This wasn't about abandoning tradition but enhancing it, positioning the company at the forefront of the impending "Quartz Revolution" that would reshape the horology industry in the decades to come.

The division quickly yielded groundbreaking results. In 1952, they produced the world's first electronic clock without contacts or moving parts, marking a significant leap in reliability and precision. This was followed by the first fully electronic timekeeper in 1956 and, in 1958, the world's first miniaturized quartz chronometer, which earned Patek Philippe the U.S. Government's Miniaturization Award for its compact design and exceptional accuracy. 

By 1959, they had developed the first quartz-powered marine chronometer, and in 1960, the Chronotome—a miniature quartz clock that became iconic when a transistorized version was gifted to U.S. President John F. Kennedy in 1963, which can be see below in the image that appears courtesy of QuillAndPad.com, who wrote an amazing article chronicling this special clock.

This state of the art Patek Philippe Quartz desk clock kept time in Moscow, Washington and Berlin, and was gifted to JFK when he visited Berlin, during his trip where he uttered his famous "Ice bin bin Berliner" speech.

Further innovations included the Chronoquartz systems in 1962, the first series-produced quartz chronometers with observatory-certified accuracy, and advanced master clock systems like the T2 and T3 in the mid-1960s. The T3, introduced around 1971 and famously installed in the Swiss Parliament (earning it the nickname "Swiss Parliament Clock"), was a towering dual-system marvel standing 1.48 meters tall, featuring three high-precision quartz reference clocks, 64 subordinate dials, and the capacity to drive up to 6,000 secondary clocks. It incorporated a patented radio-controlled synchronization system from 1967, using long-wave signals from the Prangins Swiss Time Observatory for automatic adjustments.

These electronic masterpieces powered critical infrastructure worldwide, from airports, railways, hospitals, and nuclear power plants to high-profile clients like NASA (for space shuttle launches), the United Nations, the Vatican, and even the World's Fair. By the 1980s and 1990s, the division evolved to produce compact systems like the Telequartz—a microprocessor-controlled radio clock about 8 centimeters tall, 60 times smaller than earlier tower models—representing the pinnacle and eventual culmination of Patek Philippe's electronic clock era.

Overall, the 1948 establishment of this division not only cemented Patek Philippe's role as a pioneer in atomic and quartz timekeeping but also influenced modern horology by achieving accuracies down to the thousandth of a second, far surpassing mechanical standards of the time. Today, these rare electronic pieces are highly collectible, with the largest known collection valued at over $2 million and comprising more than 40 items amassed since the 1970s.

It's worth noting that in the late 1950s, Patek Philippe's research institute stood at the forefront of horological innovation, pioneering deep investigations into alternative power sources for clocks and watches, including solar (photoelectric), nuclear (atomic-based), and quartz technologies. This forward-thinking work is highlighted on the first page of an article in the June 1959 issue of Discovery magazine, a British popular science publication of the era. The full article, starting on page 238, offers a fascinating glimpse into the cutting-edge developments reshaping timekeeping.

On page 242, the magazine describes an intriguing American innovation: "An interesting American development is the miniature tuning-fork watch, prototypes of which are at present undergoing reliability testing. It consists of an oscillator stabilised by a tuning-fork with a transistor, probably working at some tens of cycles per second (the exact figure is not yet known). The frequency division and the counting are mechanical, and the accuracy appears to be greater than that of an ordinary watch. However, it is perhaps better to reserve judgment until the official results are made known."

This reference likely alludes to the Bulova Accutron, whose Caliber 214 movement was developed in 1959 by engineer William O. Bennett and commercially launched in 1960 as the world's first fully electronic watch, vibrating at 360 Hz for unprecedented accuracy. In the same article, the head of Patek Philippe—likely Henri Stern, who led the company during this period—discussed quartz technology, noting that while it showed immense promise, it wasn't yet feasible to miniaturize for wristwatches. He predicted, however, that such advancements would arrive soon. Indeed, Patek Philippe had already achieved milestones like the first quartz clock in 1956, paving the way for the quartz revolution that would transform the industry in the 1960s and 1970s. This era underscores Patek Philippe's pivotal role in bridging traditional mechanical mastery with electronic horizons, a legacy that continues to influence modern watchmaking.

In an ironic twist of fate, it's fascinating to point out that the Strontium-90 (Sr-90) that Patek Philippe was experimenting with at the time to try to power clocks was the exact same energy source that Rolex used on the first GMT-Master models in 1955 to luminate the bezel insert and dial markers and hands, that got Rolex in trouble with the U.S. Government's Atomic Energy Commission.

1961 Electric Rolex

ROLEX ELECTROTIME

On April 21, 1961, just a year before joining the Centre Électronique Horloger (CEH), Rolex filed a trademark application for “ROLEX ELECTROTIME,” as documented in the registration below. This pivotal move raises a captivating question: Was Rolex poised to debut its first electronic watch, a project rooted in their early 1950s innovations, or did this trademark hint at an entirely different venture?

Seven months later, on November 8, 1961, Rolex took a bold step forward by filing a patent application for an electronic Rolex watch, with the distinguished watchmaker Emile Borer (pictured below) named as the inventor, as detailed in the application below. As Rolex’s Technical Chief Director, Borer had already left an indelible mark on horology, having spearheaded the development and refinement of the groundbreaking Rolex Perpetual movement in the early 1930s—a pioneering automatic winding mechanism that proved both commercially viable and enduringly successful. 

The fact this Rolex engineer was responsible for both the Perpetual and Electronic Rolex watches is deeply profound when you think about it!!!!

This recently uncovered patent filing carries profound implications, shedding new light on Rolex’s early ambitions in electronic timekeeping and its potential impact on horological history.

This 1961 Rolex Electric watch patent application CH374938A, which was originally filed in Switzerland, contains many interesting details.

One of the most intriguing aspects of the 1961 Rolex electric watch patent application, CH374938A, originally filed in Switzerland, is a specific claim within the document: 

    "Electric watch, in particular wristwatch, the bottom of the case of which is pierced with at least one opening in which a source of electrical energy is housed, characterized in that said source of energy is driven into said opening of the bottom, which it closes tightly. Opposite writings and images under examination Swiss invention statement." 

This description underscores Rolex’s innovative approach to housing the battery in a sealed compartment, likely designed to tackle the era’s prevalent challenges with battery leakage and moisture—a critical issue for early electric watches, as evidenced by their 1950s experiments. The patent suggests Rolex was focused on developing a secure, replaceable battery system, ensuring the watch’s reliability and durability in line with their exacting standards.

This revelation carries significant implications, indicating that Rolex may have been on the verge of launching an electronic watch not once, but twice—first in 1952, and again in 1961—only to hold back at the last moment.

 

These findings position Rolex as a pioneering force in the development of electronic watches, potentially even being THE leading innovator in the field. Remarkably, this aspect of Rolex’s history remained undocumented until elements of this article’s publication in early April 2025, marking a groundbreaking contribution to horological scholarship.

CEH MISSION 

The CEH’s mission was clear and urgent: develop cutting-edge electronic wristwatch technology to keep Switzerland at the forefront of a rapidly evolving industry.

Electronic Watch Centre (Centre Électronique Horloger SA, or CEH) was founded in 1962 in Neuchâtel, Switzerland by René Le Coultre. It was a joint venture between 20 of the top Swiss brands, with the objective to develop a reliable and manufacturable analog quartz watch movement. As we will see later in this story, René Le Coultre would go to later play a significant role in the development of the Rolex OysterQuarz.

CEH's first innovation, the "Alpha" movement, emerged under the guidance of Heinz Waldburger. It featured a figure-eight-shaped resonator—a clever design that hinted at the potential of electronic timekeeping. 

Soon after, Max Forrer led the development of the more ambitious "Beta" movement, which paired a tuning fork with frequency dividers to drive a stepped motor in a complex interplay of mechanics and electronics. Despite their promise, neither the Alpha nor Beta movements progressed to production.

Meanwhile, a clandestine faction within CEH, spearheaded by visionaries, Rolf Lochinger, and Armin Frei, began exploring a radical new frontier: quartz technology. This "underground" team forged ahead, even as Max Forrer—head of the circuits division—dismissed quartz as a futile endeavor, clinging to his skepticism. 

THE BIRTH OF QUARTZ 

Lochinger and Armin's quiet defiance would soon prove pivotal. In November 1965, CEH director Roger Wellinger made a bold declaration: a "montre-bracelet à quartz" (quartz wristwatch) would be their ultimate goal. Forrer, however, remained unmoved.

By May 1967, Lochinger and Frei proposed a quartz oscillator paired with a frequency divider—echoing Forrer’s Beta project—but with a crucial innovation: an integrated circuit to slash power consumption. 

This became the foundational architecture of the Beta Quartz movement. Just two months later, in July 1967, CEH unveiled the Beta 1 prototype, dubbed CEJ 1012, meticulously engineered by François Niklès and Jean Hermann. 

Widely regarded as the world’s first functional quartz wristwatch, it was submitted to the International Chronometric Competition in Neuchâtel, Switzerland—despite being a proof-of-concept prototype rather than a production model.

The Beta 1 featured a "dead-beat" ticking motion, oscillating at 0.5 Hz (one full oscillation every two seconds). Its 60-position stepper motor advanced the second hand once per second—a mechanism that remains the standard for quartz watches today.

In August 1967, the Neuchâtel Observatory awarded the Beta 1 a chronometer classification of 0.189—an unprecedented score that surpassed every watch previously tested, including the Bulova Accutron. 

In July 1967, the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) advanced the quartz wristwatch race by submitting ten Beta 1 models for testing at the International Chronometric Competition in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, where they outperformed Seiko’s competing quartz entries. 

That same month, CEH introduced the Beta 2 prototype, developed by Max Forrer’s team, and confidently declared their intent to be the first to produce a viable quartz wristwatch movement, a plan they solidified by February 1968. 

However, competitors moved faster: on August 10, 1969, Longines unveiled functional prototypes of the Ultra-Quartz at a press conference at The Intercontinental Hotel in Geneva, followed by Seiko’s debut of the Astron on December 25, 1969—four months later. The Seiko Astron was a 35SQ Model that was 30MM, and was designed by Kazunari Sasaki of Suwa Seikosha. It operated at 8192 Hz, ad was made from 18kt yellow gold (diameter 36 mm, thickness 11 mm). The price was 450,000 yen. 

Seiko filed their trademark in Japan on September 9, 1969, then on October 9, 1969 filed their "SEIKO QUARTZ-ASTRON" trademark in Switzerland, as pictured below. Seiko later filed a trademark for their Astron Quartz model in the U.S.A. in 1970.

Despite the later unveiling, our research suggests the Seiko Astron reached consumers first. CEH’s Beta 21 movement finally hit the market on April 10, 1970, nine months after Longines’ announcement and four months after Seiko’s launch, marking a significant but delayed milestone in quartz watch history.

THE QUARTZ 

CRISIS REVOLUTION 

and The Seiko Christmas Surprise 

In the world of horology, the rise of quartz watch technology is a tale of two perspectives: some call it the Quartz Crisis, a cataclysm that upended traditional watchmaking, while others hail it as the Quartz Revolution, a bold leap into the future. The label you choose depends on which side of the divide you stand.

Rolex, celebrated for its exquisitely over-engineered cases, bracelets, and mechanical mastery, was once a trailblazer in the realm of quartz timekeeping. Their early experiments with electric watches (as detailed above in this story) in the 1950s laid the groundwork for what was to come. 

Meanwhile, across the globe, the Japanese Seiko Corporation was also racing toward innovation, developing both electric watches and quartz technology throughout the late 1950s and early 1960s.

Seiko made its first major mark in 1964 at the Tokyo Summer Olympics, deploying its pioneering Seiko Crystal Chronometer QC-51—a portable quartz clock—as a backup timer for Olympic events, showcasing quartz’s potential for precision. 

THE ROLEX REVOLUTION

Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s visionary founder, together with his trusted executive René-Paul Jeanneret, carefully selected André-Jean Heiniger to assume leadership of the company following Wilsdorf’s death in 1960. 

Entrusting Heiniger and Jeanneret with near-unlimited financial resources, Wilsdorf effectively handed them a blank checkbook, which they used to embark on a strategic investing initiative. Far from frivolous, their investments were astute and forward-thinking, positioning Rolex for long-term success on multiple fronts.

Under their leadership, Rolex transformed from a manufacturer of high-quality reliable watches, into a premier luxury watch brand, a shift epitomized by the construction of a cutting-edge world headquarters in Geneva, completed in January 1965. This state-of-the-art facility, which remains Rolex’s global headquarters to this day, symbolized their elevated ambitions. 

To mark this milestone, Rolex published two striking Rolex Magazine advertisements showcasing their redefined identity and commitment to excellence.

"First we shape our dwellings, then our dwellings shape us." 

—Sir Winston Churchill

There are several lines that I find to be really interesting:

"The Rolex watches of today have reached such heights of precision, accuracy, and ruggedness that it is difficult to predict what the watches of tomorrow will be like."

In particular, I find this next line to be fascinating:

"Whether they will be in cases of titanium or solid synthetic diamond. Whether they will be powered by atomic energy or by sun. But one thing is certain. The finest watches of tomorrow will be built by the men at Rolex."

So basically, back in 1965, which was 60 years ago, Rolex was experimenting with titanium cases, which means it only took Rolex six decades to finally come out with a titanium case Rolex. The next line that they might be powered by atomic energy or by the sun, is the most interesting!

In 1965, after Rolex moved into their plush new international headquarters that rose above Geneva, Switzerland, they focused on the next round of innovation, which involved coming up with a strategy for creating a quartz Rolex watch platform.

By 1966, Seiko revealed prototypes of the world’s first quartz-powered pocket watches, presenting them alongside Longines at the Neuchâtel Observatory competition in Switzerland. 

The following year, in 1967, both the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) and Seiko unveiled quartz wristwatch prototypes at the same competition, signaling a fierce race to market.

On Christmas Day, December 25, 1969, Seiko electrified the horological world with the launch of the Astron—the first commercially available quartz wristwatch. Its arrival reverberated like a thunderbolt across the watchmaking industry, ushering in a transformative era of precision timekeeping and foreshadowing profound changes to come. 

Some likened it to a second Pearl Harbor, an ironic strike against Switzerland’s watchmaking stronghold. Yet, Rolex remained unfazed, having quietly and diligently advanced their own quartz technology in anticipation of this very moment.

The Third Time is a Charm 

The Rolex "Texan"

Reference 5100 Quartz

Rolex has long been synonymous with horological firsts, a legacy of innovation that reshaped the watchmaking world. In 1926, they pioneered the first truly functional and commercially viable waterproof watch with the Rolex Oyster, a feat followed in 1931 with the introduction of the Rolex Perpetual—the first commercially successful automatic wristwatch. 

The milestones continued: in 1945, Rolex debuted the Datejust, the first automatic wristwatch with a date window at 3 o’clock, and in 1956, they launched the Day-Date, another groundbreaking proprietary Rolex design. The list of Rolex’s pioneering achievements stretches on, but where does the brand stand in the quartz revolution?

As previously mentioned, consensus holds that Seiko claimed the title of first to market a quartz wristwatch with the Astron, released on December 25, 1969. However, whispers persist that Rolex may have been the first to develop a quartz watch, even if Seiko narrowly beat them to the commercial finish line. 

This intriguing question—often overlooked in horological discourse—deserves a closer look. I plan to delve even deeper into this topic in my upcoming series of books, sifting through the evidence to separate-fact-from-fiction.

Rolex’s first quartz-powered creation, the Reference 5100, was apparently developed in 1969 as we will soon see from Rolex, and was driven by the Beta-21 calibre developed through the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH). 

André-Jean Heiniger

During my research over the years, I uncovered a compelling first-hand account from a former Rolex executive I interviewed, who shared a previously unpublished anecdote about then-Rolex director/CEO, André-Jean Heiniger’s perspective on quartz watches. This revealing insight, never before disclosed, offers a rare glimpse into Rolex’s internal deliberations during a pivotal era in horological history. André-Jean Heiniger once said something that still makes the room go silent:

"In 1968, André-Heiniger attended our Rolex sales meeting, staged at Gurney's Inn in Montauk, Long Island, to audit the proceedings. 

When a salesman asked Rolex USA President, René-Paul Dentan if the growing popularity of quartz based watches (Bulova Accutron, et al) might inspire Rolex in Geneva to add quartz watches to tap into opportunities of a growing market, Heiniger (pictured below), bolted to the podium and with his first raised, and red-faced, growled, 'We are Rolex of Geneva...as long as I draw breath, there will be no quartz Rolex!'"

Rolex CEO, André-Jean Heiniger with his wife Odette

The anecdote above really kind of sums up how André-Heiniger viewed quartz technology. He seemed to tolerate quartz technology perhaps as some kind of necessary evil, and throughout his career "rejected electronics in favor of mechanical watches". I believe it was his attitude toward quartz watches that informed and still effects many peoples attitudes to this day.

More Insight

I recently had the opportunity to speak with another former top Rolex executive, who joined the company well before the launch of the Reference 5100 and remained there for many years afterward. He spoke glowingly of André Heiniger, making it evident that he held him in high regard and deep respect. When I inquired about Rolex's historical stance on quartz watches, he shared the following insights:

"André Heiniger abhorred quartz technology. He was extremely slow and highly reluctant to embrace it, or release any quartz Rolex models. I remember how, for years, he delayed the OysterQuartz before finally allowing it into production. The primary reason Heiniger eventually greenlit the Reference 5100—and later the OysterQuartz line—was persistent pressure from our jewelers and authorized resellers. They kept asking their Rolex sales representatives whether the brand would ever introduce a quartz model?

"Even after Rolex discontinued the Reference 5100, the inquiries didn't stop. People continued to ask if Rolex would ever revive quartz watches, which, of course, surged in popularity during the 1970s. Jewelers often relayed customer comments like, 'Bulova and other leading brands offer quartz watches—why doesn't Rolex, especially as the industry leader?' Heiniger resisted for a long time, which accounts for Rolex's notable delays in entering and addressing the market. Not long after Japanese manufacturers flooded the market with quartz watches, it devolved into a race to the bottom on price points, often at the expense of quality. That's another key reason I believe Heiniger frowned upon quartz models for Rolex: he felt they risked cheapening the brand's prestigious image."

While I found sources that said that the Rolex 'Texan' Reference 5100 was officially unveiled at the Basel Watch Fair in 1970, the earliest mention we have been able to find shows it being showcased at Basel Watch Fair in 1971. 

Pictured below, an image from Rolex in Geneva highlights the 'Year' as '1969' for the Rolex Quartz Reference 5100. Intrigued by this ambiguity, I reached out to Rolex to clarify: Did 1969 mark the design, patent, production, or public debut? Their enigmatic reply—'we have no further details to share'—left the milestone veiled in mystery. Based on meticulous scholarship, my informed hypothesis is 1969 likely saw the creation of Rolex’s first production prototypes for this groundbreaking model.

This strikes me as being a very important point as Seiko launched their Astron model on Christmas Day, in 1969, which was at the very tail-end of 1969. If Rolex had also launched this model in 1969, and beat Seiko to market, that would be profound. 

Below we see a meeting memo from The Horological Society of New York, which features a line that reads "WHAT'S NEW AT ROLEX? THE FIRST PRESENTATION IN THE UNITED STATES". This meeting took place on November 6, 1972, and on it's program says, "THE NEW ROLEX ELECTRONIC". This might suggest it was officially launched in 1971 in Europe and went on sale in the United States in later 1972. 

Reflecting on the early 1970s, it’s remarkable how Rolex’s watch launches unfolded. A new model would debut in Switzerland, taking years to reach American shores. Contrast that with today’s Watches and Wonders, where Rolex unveils its latest creations, and within hours, every detail goes viral and floods the globe via the internet. Within weeks, these watches hit U.S. markets, ready for purchase. Truly, it’s become a small world after all.

This groundbreaking model—nicknamed the "Texan" for its bigger-than-life, bold, commanding presence—was a limited-edition run of just 1,000 pieces in total, which consisted of approximately 900 in yellow gold only around 100 pieces in white gold—which makes them an extremely rare variant. Each watch was crafted in solid 18-karat gold, with its unique limited-edition number engraved on the case side, a testament to its exclusivity as seen in the image below that appears courtesy of Momentum-Dubai.com, and appears in a superb article on the subject of the Reference 5100.

Both the Rolex Reference 5100 and Seiko Astron were marvels of their time, their cutting-edge technology commanding prices equivalent to a car. 

The Reference 5100 was powered by the Beta-21 movement, and it featured a quartz crystal oscillating at 8192 Hz, marking Rolex’s official entry into the quartz era with a blend of Swiss precision and cutting-edge innovation.

The demand for the Reference 5100 was nothing short of electrifying—all 1,000 units sold out before production even commenced, securing its place as an instant icon in Rolex’s storied history. This fact may be a clue as to what Rolex meant by "1969". Perhaps Rolex did a soft launch with dealers around the world in 1969 by showing them a production prototype, which instantly sold out?

The 39-40mm Rolex Reference 5100, boldly christened the "Texan" for its commanding presence, was a visionary fusion of daring modern design and cutting-edge technology. A top Rolex executive I recently interviewed for this story, said: 

"The 5100 Quartz was a very big and bold masculine watch which had a great deal of presence on the wrist due to how much gold was used to make it. At the time, it was by far the biggest, boldest, goldest Rolex we had ever made. Of course, gold at the time was only $33 an ounce, and today it's $3,300 an ounce, but the gold really made it stand out when it came to market. There was a lot of confusion after it was discontinued after only 1000 pieces as it was very popular and was a major next-level statement piece. Particularly since it came out just after President Johnson really popularized the Rolex 'President' model, that was advertised in the Rolex Magazine ad with the President wearing his Day-Date, while holding a red phone in his hand. It took another 6 years for Rolex to finally come out with another Quartz model, which really frustrated jewelers who wanted to be able to offer a Quartz Rolex."

For added context, the Rolex Magazine ad pictured above was published in 1966, and implied the watch was on the wrist of the President of the United Stages, which was President Johnson, who is pictured below. The Rolex executive I recently interviewed who worked for Rolex at the time told me that having the President of the United States rocking a Rolex Day-Date was a major status symbol, and many men wanted to emulate the President by wearing a big gold watch. He mentioned that the Day-Date at that time had only ever been 36MM, but the new Rolex Quartz being 40MM with the fancy angular bracelet really stood out as a statement piece, which was even bigger, better and bolder than the Day-Date. 

The Rolex President

U.S. President Lyndon Johnson

Yellow Gold Rolex Day-Date

White House Oval Office

Washington D.C. 1965

Roger Rockin' Rolex Quartz

Below we see a photo of Rolex's top brand ambassador, Swiss Tennis legend, Roger Federer, and he is rocking his Rolex Reference 5100 that was made in the early 1970s.

I discovered sources which claim Rolex unveiled its Reference 5100 OysterQuartz at the Basel Swiss Watch Fair in 1970, but from all the research we have done, we have yet to find anything earlier than the Swiss Watch Fair of 1971 as witnessed with the SwissTime article below.

As perviously mentioned, Rolex seems to claim the Rolex Quartz Reference 5100 was introduced in 1969. The following Trademark registration might offer a clue as its dated July 5, 1968, which was 549 days prior to the date that Seiko announced the Astron on Christmas Day in 1969, and it includes ROLEX CHRONOCRYSTAL and ROLEX CHRONOQUARTZ.

Below we see a male model wearing the Rolex Quartz Reference 5100 which originally appeared in the June, 1971 La Suisse Horlogère.

Below we see two more pages from the June 1971 edition that talks about the styling of "Electronic Watches", and is interesting to note they did not refer to them or make a distinction between electric, or quartz—which kind of makes sense if you think about it. 

The first page shows the Rolex 5100 Quartz in yellow gold, and mentions it features a scratch proof sapphire Chrystal with a Cyclops magnifier to facilitate date reading. On the same page, on the far left we see the Bulova Accutron Electronic Tuning Fork watch which also features as scragtchproof sapphire crystal along with the day and date.

On this second page we see the Longines Ultra-Quartz, along with the Patek Philippe Sports Style model which also incorporated the Beta 21 movement. We also see the Omega Mega-Quartz, and a Piaget. The basic takeaway was that by the middle of 1971, electronic watches were all the rage in Switzerland.

A persistent myth has long circulated, claiming famed designer Gerald Genta designed the Rolex Quartz Reference 5100’s iconic look. This tale, often peddled by a self-proclaimed Rolex historian known for presenting his unverified opinions as fact, lacks any credible evidence to support it—a fabrication I’ve found no basis for in my research.

The 5100 was a true pioneer in Rolex’s lineage, introducing a trio of groundbreaking features and firsts: To begin with, it was the very first Rolex to feature a synthetic sapphire crystal, as well as a quick-set date function, and a hacking seconds mechanism that halted the movement for precise time-setting. 

At its launch, this quartz marvel stood as the most expensive model in Rolex’s catalog, its revolutionary allure commanding a premium that reflected its innovation. The first 300 examples in white and in yellow gold featured first generation bracelets that were stamped 02/71.

Rolex heralded the 5100 with unabashed pride, proclaiming:

    “At our central headquarters in Geneva there is a Golden Register, a Who’s Who of our clients who proudly count a Rolex Quartz among their most precious possessions. They form the Rolex Quartz Club, one of the most exclusive clubs imaginable… Members of the Club are always welcome at Rolex Geneva. On their first visit, they are invited to sign the Golden Register and can enjoy a personal tour of the Geneva world Headquarters.”

Yet, for all its acclaim, the "Texan", also commonly referred to today as the "Texano", relied on the externally sourced Beta-21 movement rather than an in-house Rolex movement as pictured below. Notice the CEH Beta 21 movement is Square instead of round, which is unusual. Don't be fooled by this funky looking movement, which boasted an unparalleled precision of +/-0.003 seconds per day, which completely decimated the COSC certification standard of the day.

The 2 images above and the image below of a white gold Rolex Reference 5100 appear courtesy of Momentum-Dubai.com, and notice how interesting the geometry is on the winding crown, which looks very cool...

By 1972, Rolex discontinued the Reference 5100 model, redirecting its focus in the quartz realm. The story, however, was far from over. 

René Le Coultre

André-Jean Heiniger, Rolex’s Director General at the time (think "CEO" in modern parlance), eventually saw untapped potential in quartz technology. In a strategic move in 1971, he recruited the lead engineer from the Beta-21 program, whose name was René Le Coultre. 

Le Coultre was considered to be "the father of the quartz watch", and when he joined Rolex full-time, was directed by André-Jean Heiniger to chart the company’s next quartz chapter, in which he would develop the in-house Rolex Quartz movement that would debut in the Oysterquartz in 1977, thus appointing him as the Director of Research and Development for Rolex. 

In 1977, René Le Coultre, pictured below, unveiled the Rolex Oyster Quartz watch to the press with great fanfare. In an intriguing twist of fate, René was the grandson of Antoine Le Coultre, co-founder of the renowned Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-Le Coultre, linking two horological legacies in an unexpected convergence.

For this project, Rolex developed a special electronics division and laboratory in 1971, that ended up making the most beautiful in-house quartz movements that were also very precise, and over-engineered as Rolex watches commonly have always been. The image below from Worn & Wound is from an interesting review they wrote on the Rolex OysterQuartz, and as we see it features an unusually sophisticated and finished Rolex Oyster Quartz movement.

This next image seen below of the Rolex OysterQuarz movement is from Fratello watches, who wrote an amazing article detailing beautiful OysterQuartz models, and in this closet up image we see the battery located in the upper left hand quadrant of the movement.

Robert-Jan Broer from Fratello waxed poetically about the inner beauty of the Rolex Oysterquartz movement and said:

A QUARTZ WATCH CAN HAVE A SOUL

I started this article by saying I was told that quartz watches have no soul, but I’ve learned that this is not true. To me, at least, it doesn’t apply. As long as I have a personal connection to it, in my opinion, any watch can have a soul. There’s more to a watch than the movement anyway, but in this case, the Rolex quartz movement is quite something. It is not the replaceable cheap plastic quartz movement used in low-cost watches...In the first years of production, the Oysterquartz watches were only water-resistant to 50 meters. Later on, this was changed to 100 meters of water resistance.

The Fratello article referenced above showcases this beautiful image of an OysterQuartz Day-Date Reference 19018 that appears courtesy of WatchesLondon.com.

In 1984 Le Coultre participated in the founding of the Swiss Center for Electronics and Microtechnology (Centre Suisse d'électronique et de Microtechnique, CSEM) in Neuchâtel, which replaced the Electronic Watch Center. LeCoultre retired from Rolex in 1987, and is pictured below in a much more recent photo which was taken before he passed away.

It took five years of relentless innovation, but by 1977, Rolex unveiled its in-house Oysterquartz movements—a horological triumph that married precision with the brand’s signature durability. The journey to this milestone also inspired new design explorations. 

1920s ROLEX DIGITAL WATCH 

Earlier in this story we learned how in the early 1950s, Rolex's founder, Hans Wilsdorf was furiously experimenting with and developed an Electric Rolex in 1952 that appears to have been shelved, until 1961, at which time Rolex almost launched an electronic Rolex. 

Rolex has always pushed the envelope with elegant and utilitarian design. As a matter of fact, beginning back in the later 1920s, Rolex sold a model named "The Marconi Jump Hour" which was a completely digital watch model, as we see pictured below.

When we think about "digital watches" today, we typically think about electronic, or quartz models, but this Rolex Marconi was a straight up 'mechanical' digital wrist watch model. The Marconi models were curvex watches, meaning the back of the watch was curved to optimally follow the curvature of the wrist. 

These Marconi jump hour Rolex models were made through the 1940s, and I think they are so cool looking. I hope, one day in the future, Rolex brings back this art-deco design, which is highly functional and very cool looking. As wee see in the image above, the top aperture window displayed the hours 1-12; the middle aperture window displayed the minutes; and the bottom window counted seconds. The particular model in this photo was produced in the 1930s and appears courtesy of OldTimers Vintage Wristwatches, which is located in the United Kingdom.

1970 ROLEX DIGITAL WATCH 

While the Marconi Jump Hour models were the first all digital Rolex model, it's interesting to learn in 1970 Rolex filed a patent titled "CLOCK WITH DIGITAL DISPLAY" which were electronic. This is absolutely fascinating and can you imagine if Rolex had come out with a digital watch in 1970? Pictured below, we see Rolex's 1970 patent application for a Digital Rolex:

So what does this mean exactly? The first digital watch was created by Hamilton Watch Company, in collaboration with Electro-Data, Inc. It was called the Hamilton Pulsar, and it was released on April 4, 1972. 

The watch featured a red LED display and was a groundbreaking innovation at the time, retailing for a hefty $2,100—equivalent to about $15,000 today when adjusted for inflation. 

James Bond even sported one in Live and Let Die in 1973, cementing its place in tech and pop culture history. This newfound discovery suggests that just like the Electric battery powered watch that Rolex pioneered, they have may have very well done the same thing with digital watches!?!!

1971 ROLEX DIGITAL WATCH 

Again, in 1971 Rolex filed a patent titled "TIMEPIECE WITH ELECTRONICALLY DESIGNED DIGITAL READ-OUT" for a Rolex Digital watch which we see below.

1974 

ROLEX DESIGN LANGUAGE

IT'S HIP TO BE SQUARE

In 1974, Rolex introduced an experimental two-tone Oyster Datejust, pictured below, which modernized the classic Datejust aesthetic. Think of it as the horological equivalent of old Coke versus New Coke—a fresh take on a timeless icon, blending heritage with a bold, contemporary edge. 

Rolex a few years later, would incorporate this bold new modern design language into what we now commonly refer to as a Rolex Oyster Quartz. Just to be crystal clear, the Rolex pictured below is NOT and Oyster Quartz model, but just a standard mechanical DATEJUST in an updated modern case.

In September of 1975 Rolex filed their trademark for ROLEX OYSTERQUARTZ as we see image below.

Interestingly, below we see a U.S. Patent Application that was filed on September 20, 1971, that calls out to a Foreign Application filed previously on September 29, 1970, but this appears to be for the upcoming Rolex OysterQuartz model which featured a round movement. This suggests that Rolex either had the Rolex OysterQuartz developed 6 years prior to launch, or that they took their time on further R&D before release. We know this as the Reference 5100 featured a square movement and the movement illustrated below is round.

In 1977, Rolex unveiled its Oysterquartz models, a testament to the brand’s relentless pursuit of innovation, featuring their newly developed in-house quartz movements. This lineup included the Calibre 5035 for the Datejust, pictured below, and the Calibre 5055 for the Day-Date. 

These Oysterquartz movements were a leap forward, boasting 11 jewels and a 32 kHz oscillator—a significant upgrade over the Beta-21’s frequency. This higher oscillation rate underscored Rolex’s unyielding commitment to precision and accuracy, ensuring these quartz timepieces upheld the brand’s legacy of excellence.

The Rolex Oysterquartz, pictured above, seems to be the closest ancestor to the new Rolex Land-Dweller in design and spirit, which is pictured below and was launched in 2025 at Watches and Wonders 

Produced from 1977 to around 2002, the Oysterquartz enjoyed a quarter-century run and a modest but dedicated following. Rolex filed a trademark for "ROLEX OYSTERQUARTZ DAY-DATE" on November 14, 1978 as seen below.

Rolex made at least 84,000 Quartz movements models as there were that many that received Chronometry Certificates, thus they were a rare breed—hardly the pack leader. 

Despite perhaps seeming like a significant number of Rolex watches, quartz only accounted for around 2.5% of the cumulative number of Rolex chronometers produced during the 1980s. So, was quartz a revolution that reshaped horology, or just an “inferior cur dog” barking up the wrong tree?

...BACK TO THE FUTURE...

JAKE'S TAKE

ON THE FUTURE OF ROLEX DESIGN

This might sound heretical to my readers, but I’ve long been a quartz enthusiast. Its precision, reliability, and—when paired with smart tech—unmatched convenience are hard to ignore. Picture this: I’m flying from New York to Geneva, wearing a smartwatch. 

As I cross time zones, it seamlessly updates the time and date, landing me in Switzerland with everything perfectly synced to local time. Now, if I’m sporting a traditional mechanical watch, I’m stuck glancing at my smartphone for the correct time, then fumbling to manually adjust my watch upon arrival. No contest.

Smartwatches like the Apple Watch tap into atomic time, ensuring pinpoint accuracy. Imagine if Rolex crafted a Submariner or GMT-Master that looked identical to its mechanical twin but hid a smart core—automatically keeping time and date in flawless sync, no matter where I roam. I’d pick that 10 times out of 10 for the sheer convenience, and I’m betting I’m not alone.

In a thought experiment I’ve toyed with—hopping into a time machine to 1959 and chatting with Hans Wilsdorf—I’m convinced he’d nod in approval. His mission was always to create miniature time machines: watches that delivered impeccable accuracy with minimal fuss for the wearer.

Consider the original Oyster, launched in 1926. It wasn’t just about diving or swimming—those were bonuses. Wilsdorf engineered the Oyster to shield its movement from dust and moisture, ensuring it kept stellar time in any condition.

Then, in 1931, Rolex unveiled the Perpetual, the first commercially viable self-winding watch. Sure, sparing users the daily winding ritual was a perk, but the real genius? Reducing wear on the crown by eliminating constant unscrewing. Wilsdorf wasn’t chasing gimmicks; he was obsessed with longevity and precision. A smart Rolex that auto-adjusts across time zones feels like the natural heir to that vision.

JAKE'S TIME-MACHINE

I dream of a future where Rolex embraces truly smart models—watches that match their mechanical siblings in style and durability but add cutting-edge functionality. There’s no reason they couldn’t look the part while packing that tech. 

On April 12, 2025 I wrote an article titled "Jake's Rolex Time-Machine Concept", in which I showcased the following graphic that showed my idea of what a "Smart Rolex" watch would look like. In the center we see the new Land-Dweller model Rolex introduced in 2025, flanked by what might appear to be two different models I conceptualized the design for, yet they are the same watch. 

The watch on the far left which is my concept, has a feature where if you single press on the winding crown, pushing it inward, will flip out of the way the model designation of "TIME-MACHINE" to expose my triple date complication which is pictured on the right.

Rolex pioneered the first automatic watch with a Date, which is the DATEJUST, then a decade later came up with the DAY-DATE, and I believe the next logical step would be for them to come out with a TRIPLE-DATE as pictured above.

Even Patek Philippe still offers quartz models, especially for women, sparing them the hassle of setting time and date on mechanical pieces. Which begs the question: if quartz was so brilliant, why did Rolex abandon it?

Here’s my take. After Wilsdorf’s death in 1960, the brand’s new stewards—led by André-Jean Heiniger, then Director General (think CEO today)—reimagined Rolex as a luxury titan. 

André-Jen Heiniger was famously asked the question: "How is the watch business going?" He brushed off the question and responded, “I have no idea. Rolex is in the luxury business, and we’re always doing great!” 

Under Heiniger's watch, it appears quartz got slowly sidelined. It had become the domain of mass-market timekeepers, while mechanical movements screamed exclusivity and craftsmanship—hallmarks of luxury. Post-Wilsdorf Rolex equated prestige with gears, not batteries.

But there’s more. Rolex mastered mechanical movements so thoroughly that their modern watches—like those boasting the -2/+2 seconds-per-day standard—rival quartz for accuracy without a whiff of electronics. 

It’s a jaw-dropping feat: handcrafted machines keeping quartz-like time. Still, I can’t help but yearn for a smart Rolex—one with that over-engineered build quality, built to endure generations, yet perpetually synced to the world’s pulse, no matter where travel takes me.

The Oysterquartz may have faded, but its echo in the LAND-DWELLER (real or imagined) hints at what could be. Quartz wasn’t a failure—it was a stepping stone. Maybe Rolex will take the next leap, blending Wilsdorf’s relentless innovation with the smart tech of today. I’d wear that future on my wrist in a heartbeat.

This is not just a science fiction dream as Rolex has been apparently working on creating a hybrid model that couples mechanical movements with invisible electronics that allow them to keep atomic time, perhaps similar to how I outlined in my story, named "Jake's Rolex Time-Machine Concept".

You can see the entire patent by clicking here. Page 7 of this new patent shows the BRAIN of this new Rolex innovation, and from what we can tell, it allows for the movement's time to be checked against a reference time using electronics, and then the balance spring can adjust automatically to ensure the best timing.

UNDERSTANDING THE REGULATING SYSTEM

At the heart of this patent is a mechanical oscillator, a critical component in a watches movement that regulates timekeeping. Unlike traditional oscillators that operate at a fixed frequency, this new Rolex system allows the watch to switch between three distinct frequencies:

• Nominal Frequency: The Standard operating mode for everyday timekeeping.
• Higher Frequency: Used to correct delays who the watch is running slow.
• Lower Frequency: Used to correct advances when the watch is running fast.

This frequency adjustment is achieved by varying the stiffness of the oscillator's elastic return system, typically a balance spring, through a frequency selector device that uses clamps to alter the spring's effective length. 

A control device oversees the main operating mode, while an actuator device facilitates the switch to auxiliary modes based on the watch's performance.

What sets this new system apart is its hybrid nature. The patent describes a counting device with a second oscillator operating at a much higher frequency-likely in the tens or hundreds of kilohertz, or even megahertz— suggesting the use of a quartz crystal as a precise reference. 

A comparator device compares the watch's current rate with this reference, enabling the system to make real-time adjustments. These adjustments occur periodically, typically hourly, with comparisons made every minute, ensuring consistent accuracy with minimal energy consumption (forces between 0.1 mN and 10 mN).

Crazy Coincidence

As mentioned, I recently published an article on April 12, 2025, titled "BACK TO THE FUTURE: JAKE'S ROLEX TIME-MACHINE CONCEPT", in which I showcased a number of my ideas for what I want to see in a smart Rolex. The image below shows my Rolex "Time Machine" concept, which feature an electronic brain that is powered by a tiny battery that is recharged by the mechanical rotor, and synchronizes with your smartphone. When I saw how similar Rolex's patent was, it blew my mind!!! Of course, Rolex took a completely different path than I did, but it's fascinating nonetheless.

One of my top researchers saw Rolex's recent patent and asked me: "Did you have inside info? 😝 or did you just go deep down the potential rabbit hole?" I responded "I swear to God I had no idea 🤷🏻‍♂️ and came up with it all myself".

Below we see the exhibition caseback on Rolex's new Land-Dweller model, that showcases their beautiful movement.

The next image seen below shows my concept with the added SMART Time Machine module brain.

Several days later, on April 15, 2025, I published another article, that further laid out my idea, and it was named "ROLEX TIME MACHINE: TRIPLE-DATE CALENDAR: YEAR 2050 ROLEX MAGAZINE AD." Below is a mockup Rolex ad concept I created to showcase my idea.

Rolex Quantum

Pioneering Atomic Precision in Neuchâtel’s Horological Heart

In May 2025, Rolex unveiled a bold new chapter in its legacy of precision with the establishment of Rolex Quantum SA, headquartered in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, at the storied Rue de l’Observatoire. This innovative venture is dedicated to exploring quantum technology, specifically the development and commercialization of optical atomic clocks. 

Harnessing the power of rubidium atoms, these cutting-edge timekeeping systems offer accuracy far surpassing traditional cesium-based clocks. Designed for transformative applications in GPS, telecommunications, and global timekeeping standards, Rolex Quantum’s atomic clocks are not intended for wristwatches—yet their creation raises an intriguing question: could Rolex’s quantum advancements one day redefine precision in its iconic timepieces?

Neuchâtel, a cornerstone of Swiss watchmaking heritage, is the ideal setting for this ambitious endeavor. The city’s horological legacy, anchored by landmarks like the Neuchâtel Observatory—once a global hub for chronometric testing—has long driven advancements in timekeeping. 

Complementing this heritage are the University of Neuchâtel and the Swiss Center for Electronics and Microtechnology (CSEM), both renowned for their pioneering work in miniaturized atomic clock technology. The University’s Time and Frequency Laboratory, a leader in atomic clock research for over a decade, has collaborated with the European Space Agency on projects like the Advanced Micro-Cell Atomic Clock (AMICC). 

Meanwhile, CSEM, a key Rolex partner, has advanced quantum innovations, including rubidium-based clocks, as highlighted at the Swiss Quantum Days in Arosa in January 2025. Together, these institutions cement Neuchâtel’s status as a global epicenter for timekeeping innovation.

Rolex’s quantum pursuits also echo its history of embracing cutting-edge technology, a legacy shaped by visionaries like René Le Coultre. As a founder of CSEM and a driving force behind Rolex’s serial production of the Oyster Quartz models in the 1970s, Le Coultre bridged horology and microelectronics, laying the groundwork for Rolex’s modern technological ambitions. With Rolex Quantum, the brand continues to push the boundaries of what’s possible, blending Neuchâtel’s rich heritage with the promise of a quantum future.

I find Rolex's hybrid patent fascinating and can't wait to see if and when they incorporate it, also it will be really interesting to see what Rolex Quantum SA achieves in the future. 

My Name is Michael Caine

Since we are already in the Rolex Time Machine, time traveling back a hundred years, and forward a quarter century, let's take a look back at how some famous wearers have rocked their Oyster Quartz models.

The one and only Michael Caine—legend of the silver screen—has long been known for his love affair with Rolex Day-Date models. In the photo below, he’s effortlessly sporting a classic yellow gold Rolex Day-Date, paired with a sleek leather strap that elevates its timeless allure."

Below, we catch a glimpse of the inimitable Michael Caine sporting his Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date in striking yellow gold—a watch as bold as the man himself. 

Michael Caine sported his yellow gold Rolex Oyster Quartz when he costarred beside Steve Martin in the movie, Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.

Another iconic Rolex Oysterquartz wearer was the legendary film director John Huston, captured below in a 2000 Apple 'Think Different' magazine ad. He’s seen rocking his Oysterquartz, paired with a sleek Rolex Oyster-style integrated bracelet—a perfect fusion of bold innovation and timeless style, much like the man himself.

The Rolex Magazine advertisement pictured below featuring legendary French Olympic Skier, Jean-Claude Killy was originally published in 1994.

1985 Rolex "Egyptian" Day-Date 

36mm OYSTERQUARTZ: Reference 19028

This stunning Rolex Egyptian Day-Date OYSTERQUARTZ photo is from Antiquorum, and features this over-the-top trippy Rolex Day-Date Oysterquartz that was made in 1985. The watch features a beautifully finished walnut dial, with a bezel with pyramids running around it, as well as down the bracelet. It seems like every time I think I am have come close to seeing it all with Rolex, I come across something else...Is Ronald Reagan still the President? You gotta love the eighties...

I think Rolex should bring back the walnut wood dials in the future, but with modernized makers, as it offers such an naturally (organic) vibe...This Rolex Day-Date model stands testament to the fact that Rolex historically experimented like crazy with enhancing details on many, many different models...

In the photo below, we see Drake rocking his Rolex Oyster Quartz model.

In the image below, we see Rolex racing legend, Roger Penske sporting his yellow gold Rolex Oyster Quartz Day-Date Model.

King Charles' youngest brother, Prince Edward is pictured below rocking his Rolex Oyster Quartz.

The year 2001 marked the final chapter for Rolex’s quartz COSC certifications, signaling the end of an era. By 2002, the steel Oysterquartz models vanished from Rolex catalogs, and in 2004, the curtain fell on all Oysterquartz variants, consigning them to the annals of horological history. But Rolex is always full of surprises, and brings back older models, like they did with the Milgauss, which they then discontinued a third time.

One More Thang

Rolex Day-Date: Reference 1831

As highlighted in my recent article featuring Brad Pitt rocking his custom Rolex Reference 1530, the best available scholarship—bolstered by a recent interview I conducted with a senior Rolex executive who held a leadership role during the development and production of the Rolex Quartz and OysterQuartz lines—indicates Rolex had finalized a bold new design language for their OysterQuartz around 1974, and perhaps earlier as we saw from the September, 1971 patent application pictured below, which was showcased earlier in this story. How do we know this is NOT the Beta 21 movement that was featured in the Rolex Quartz Reference 5100? The Beta 21 movement was square, and this movement is round.

This angular, modern aesthetic represented a significant departure from Rolex's traditional rounded Oyster cases, akin to the controversial shift from Classic Coke to New Coke in terms of reimagining a beloved icon.

According to insights from that executive and historical accounts, then-Rolex Director André J. Heiniger was reportedly hesitant to introduce the quartz-powered OysterQuartz amid the ongoing "Quartz Crisis," which threatened mechanical watchmaking. However, with the innovative case and integrated bracelet design already perfected, Rolex proceeded to test the waters by incorporating it into select mechanical models. 

Brad Pitt's Customized Reference 1530

This led to the launch of the Reference 1530, a stainless steel Oyster Perpetual Date that paired the cutting-edge exterior with a reliable automatic movement (Caliber 1570 or 1575 variants). The 1530 (pictured above) was produced in limited numbers—estimated at around 1,500 pieces—serving as a market probe for the forthcoming OysterQuartz, which officially debuted in 1977. Brad Pitt's customized Reference 1530, shares the same foundational design language. 

His piece has been modified by removing the date window for enhanced symmetry and repainting the dial in a rich teal blue hue, eliminating the "T SWISS T" designation at 6 o'clock for a cleaner look.

This connection underscores Rolex's experimental phase in the mid-1970s, where mechanical reliability met forward-thinking style. 

Rolex Day-Date Refernce 1831

Building on this foundation, Rolex created an even rarer iteration: the platinum Day-Date Reference 1831. This model elevated the concept to luxurious extremes, housing a specially adapted automatic Caliber 1566 movement within the same sharp-edged, tonneau-shaped OysterQuartz-style case. Only eight or nine examples of the 1831 are believed to have been produced, all in platinum and allegedly commissioned as a special order for Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, around 1977. 

There is a potentially apocryphal story that says all the  known examples were made for the Shah of Iran, but we have not seen any evidence to support this likely false association. The Shah, who was the King of Persia, was a friend of my namesake grandfather, Jake Ehrlich Sr., and they are pictured below in a photograph together at an event in California. The best scholarship would seem to suggest these watches were a special experimental limited edition run.

These watches were reportedly intended as gifts to dignitaries, with some featuring Omani Khanjar emblems (pictured below) or unique dials like vibrant "Stella" lacquer in burgundy or blue.

What makes the 1831 extraordinary is its bespoke elements: a massive, integrated bracelet which was uniquely thick and heavy for this reference, oversized diamond hour markers set unusually close to the dial's edge, and an overall weight approaching 290 grams—making it one of the heaviest Rolex wristwatches ever crafted. 

If you examine the bracelet on the Reference 1831 (pictured above), it's completely different, and looks much more like a Rolex Kind Midas bracelet, as we see Elvis Presley holding in the image below. Le Monde Edmond wrote an excellent article on the Reference 1831, which I highly recommend checking out.

The bracelet flows seamlessly into the case, giving the impression of a single, sculpted block of platinum, complete with a concealed deployant clasp stamped with 950 hallmarks. Unlike standard Day-Dates with their rounded profiles, the 1831's squared-off geometry and satin-finished links exude a modern, almost architectural presence.

The 1831 stands as the pinnacle of this era—a "holy grail" for collectors, with examples residing in elite private collections and fetching six-figure sums at auctions. The Reference 1831 not only embodies Rolex's adaptability during a turbulent time in horology but also its commitment to exclusivity and craftsmanship, solidifying its status as the "King of Day-Dates."

There are a number of these Rolex models in the hands of collectors, and they are pretty RAD. What's so interesting is that Rolex did make a Day-Date model with a President Style bracelet but modernized with this highly angular new design language, as seen below on the wrist of actor and comedian, Will Farrell who is chatting with Jason Dudekis. 

The great question, is 'will history soon repeat itself?' As we saw, back in 1974s, Rolex first launched models that featured the OysterQuartz case and bracelet with mechanical movements, then several years later in 1977 offered the same watch style with OysterQuartz movements. Is this a sign of things to come with the recent launch of the Land-Dweller?

In other words, is the new LAND-DWELLER a harbinger for new Electro-Mechanical Hybrid models that will take Rolex timekeeping precision to a whole new level of precision and convenience? I have written several articles that showcase what such a Rolex might look like, include an article named "BACK TO THE FUTURE, JAKE'S ROLEX TIME-MACHINE CONCEPT." I followed that up with and article titled "ROLEX TIME MACHINE: TRIPLE DATE CALENDAR: YEAR 3050 ROLEX MAGAZINE AD."